sockets & light switches basics

[olly330]

In addition to the above, if you choose to change any of your light switches to dimmers, you might run into the depth problem.
If you choose to fit sockets with USB on board, you might run into the depth problem.

OK, BAS beat me to it by seconds

Thanks. Was going to have a dimmer in the living room and master bedroom, do dimmer switches normally need deeper holes and deeper back boxes?

 

[Robin0577]

Usually in the 70s 16mm deep boxes were fitted for light switches. Some dimmers with a chunkier surface profile will fit on the shallow boxes, slimmer profile dimmers will need a 25mm deep box.

 

[securespark]

They may have improved on the design since I last used them

This is one I swapped from a non-USB socket. Is it the same design?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

TBH, I don't know how much work is needed/being done/already done to this place, but if builders and electricians are on site it might be worth having any shallow boxes replaced as they go.

 

[Robin0577]

This is one I swapped from a non-USB socket. Is it the same design?
View attachment 136758

That looks flatter than the version I remember, I think the older ones had a "lump" just below where the ASTA sticky label is on that one.

 

[olly330]

Right, need some advice on planning the kitchen sockets.

Will be having an integrated gas cooker hob and a double oven.
Will each of these need a fused spur (so 2 fused spurs) or just the double oven?
And is it 13amp fused spur I need to buy for both?
I want to hide the spur inside the kitchen cabinets, so would a back box be used and what depth should I get.

The washing machine and dryer will also be in the kitchen, so I am thinking a dual switched socket with backbox will be ok hidden inside the cupboard. Again, what size backbox do I get for the sockets that are inside the cupboard.

Garden security switch would also go in kitchen, I would want to hide inside a cabinet, can anyone point me in the direction of the right sort of switch, I don't understand the difference between a fused spur which essentially turns off the device, and an isolator switch which from my understanding does the same thing.

Thanks

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Right, need some advice on planning the kitchen sockets.

Will be having an integrated gas cooker hob and a double oven.
Will each of these need a fused spur (so 2 fused spurs) or just the double oven?

What circuit will the hob be on?

What is the wattage of the oven (NOTE - not the kWh figure quoted for the carrying out of some standard cooking task)

And is it 13amp fused spur I need to buy for both?

They all come with 13A fuses when you buy them.

I think you ought to be asking your electrician to tell you what to buy - I don't think you have enough experience.

I want to hide the spur inside the kitchen cabinets, so would a back box be used and what depth should I get.

The washing machine and dryer will also be in the kitchen, so I am thinking a dual switched socket with backbox will be ok hidden inside the cupboard. Again, what size backbox do I get for the sockets that are inside the cupboard.

Garden security switch would also go in kitchen, I would want to hide inside a cabinet, can anyone point me in the direction of the right sort of switch, I don't understand the difference between a fused spur which essentially turns off the device, and an isolator switch which from my understanding does the same thing.

Ditto, ditto and ditto.

If you don't even understand what a fuse is for I really don't think you know enough to be specifying accessories.

Absolutely you can learn, but do you have the time?

list]
[*] http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=electrical+circuits+101

[*] http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/House_Wiring_for_Beginners

[*] http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=uk+house+wiring+(basics+OR+101)

[*] http://kevinboone.net/electricity.html

[*] http://web.archive.org/web/20080213151445/http://www.kevinboone.com/domesticinstallations.html

[*] https://www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:books

[*] https://www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:index
[/list]

 

[winston1]

Right, need some advice on planning the kitchen sockets.

Will be having an integrated gas cooker hob and a double oven.
Will each of these need a fused spur (so 2 fused spurs) or just the double oven?
And is it 13amp fused spur I need to buy for both?
I want to hide the spur inside the kitchen cabinets, so would a back box be used and what depth should I get.

The washing machine and dryer will also be in the kitchen, so I am thinking a dual switched socket with backbox will be ok hidden inside the cupboard. Again, what size backbox do I get for the sockets that are inside the cupboard.

Garden security switch would also go in kitchen, I would want to hide inside a cabinet, can anyone point me in the direction of the right sort of switch, I don't understand the difference between a fused spur which essentially turns off the device, and an isolator switch which from my understanding does the same thing.

Thanks

The oven and hob is best on its own circuit not off the ring. Use a cooker control panel on its own 32 amp MCB.

Best to use 2 single sockets for washing machine and dryer. Not all double sockets can handle a possible total of 26 amps.

 

[EFLImpudence]

I don't understand the difference between a fused spur which essentially turns off the device, and an isolator switch which from my understanding does the same thing.

A fused spur is a branch (spur) circuit protected by a fuse.
That some people wrongly call a Fused Connector Unit, switched or not, a fused spur has led to your confusion.

An isolator switch is a switch which disconnects the power to something. You may use a Switched Fused Connector Unit for this purpose.