SOLVED Whirlpool dishwasher - blows fuses and burning smell

[SYS49152]

I have a Whirlpool ADP 8900 which is around 4 - 5 year old. A few days ago it stopped mid-cycle with a burning smell in the kitchen. It blew the 13A fuse in the plug of the dishwasher and also the 30A fuse in my consumer unit (although strangely not the 13A fuse in the spur it's fed from on the kitchen wall).

Anyway, I've removed the base plate and eyeballed things - no obvious signs of damage. I removed the front door facia to check the switches etc but again nothing obvious. I also opened the white plastic circuit board container and inspected the board - again no signs of burned pcb / components.

The unit powers on OK but displays a fault code "Fd". I've no idea what that is.

So my question is - what is the most likely culprit here? I was guessing the heater but I'm no expert. Is there a way to test the heater for continuity etc? Am I on the wrong track altogether? I don't really want to put it through another cycle in case it blows the fuses again.

I'll try to attach some pictures here to explain what I'm looking at.

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• SYS49152
• 18 Mar 2015
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• SYS49152
• 18 Mar 2015
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• SYS49152
• 18 Mar 2015
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• SYS49152
• 18 Mar 2015
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[yardie]

Yes test the heating element.
Disconnect from main.
Remove connector plug to heater.
Meter on ohms range.

What reading do you get?

 

[SYS49152]

I'm getting 25 ohms but I think this is where the problem lies. I couldn't get the power connector off - turns out it was charred / melted on to the receptacle on the heater (uploading pics in a minute).

25 ohms seems ok does it not? Maybe it's suffering when under load?

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• SYS49152
• 19 Mar 2015
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• SYS49152
• 19 Mar 2015
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• SYS49152
• 19 Mar 2015
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• SYS49152
• 19 Mar 2015
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I've searched for this part number but had no luck. There are many "equivalents" showing on various spares sites and ebay. Could anyone tell me for sure if there is an equivalent for this or which part number I should be searching for?

 

[assuhors]

Modified unit 481225928927

 

[yardie]

The heater is most likely the culprit and replacement will solve your problem.

You could also connect your meter (set on highest ohms range) and connect one probe to either of the 2 pins and the other probe to the heater shield (metal casing).
Any reading below infinite will prove a shorted element.

Though really you need a meg tester so this test is by no means conclusive but may provethe element is faulty.

Ensure you either clean the plug pins or replace with insulated push fit connectors.

 

[yardie]

P.s. boards look very good (both sides) so doubt you have any issues there.

But what I would recommend whilst its out is to check the heater relay on the pcb, the switch should be open one way and closed the other. Establish whether it is N.C or N.O.

 

[SYS49152]

I tried measuring as you suggested but the metre shows infinite ohms but as you say, that may be inconclusive.

Seems strange that it measures 25 ohms though, I'd have to guess it's breaking down when it begins to heat up. That, and the charring / melting must mean that the heater is the most likely culprit.

Thanks for your input yardie .

Would you happen to know if part no 480140102047 is a replacement for this? I can get one fairly quick and at a good price. I've searched for many parts online and find that many times the same part number brings up different images. I might end up calling Whirlpool tomorrow.

 

[yardie]

All you need be concerned with is the heater wattage, yours is 2050w, so either the same or as close to.
Also the pipe connecting diameters are a key factor.

 

[yardie]

http://www.spares4appliances.co.uk/...ement-p42143?gclid=COXe9cCptcQCFYIfwwodxi0A9w

This says alternative part numbers In product description.

 

[SYS49152]

P.s. boards look very good (both sides) so doubt you have any issues there.

But what I would recommend whilst its out is to check the heater relay on the pcb, the switch should be open one way and closed the other. Establish whether it is N.C or N.O.

I've hunted down the relay info on a web site. Looks like it is normally open - which appears to be the case when I buzz it out. Any idea what the other smaller relay does?

When I had the machine together yesterday I was getting a "Fd" fault code, which I'm guessing is to do with the door switch? The "start" led was flashing rapidly (with door closed), so much so that I couldn't count the flashes. I just powered it off again. When the door is open there is only the "Fd" display and nothing else.

This is somewhat secondary to getting the heater replaced though but I'll have to tackle it soon.

 

[yardie]

Should be easy to trace what the relay operates.
Also relays are easy to test.

 

[SYS49152]

Marking this as SOLVED.

I replaced the heater today and it's working just fine. However I no longer think that the old heater was faulty. After closer inspection of the connector on the heater (at the melting / charring), I see that both terminals must have touched each other after the separating piece of the plug somehow eroded.

My guess is that the heat on the plug became too much over the years and it simply melted, allowing the two terminal to arc / touch. Both metal terminals are partially melted.

I had to cut off the two spade connectors and replace them but as I didn't have the fully insulated type replacements, I used the type in the pic and shrouded them in heatshrink. This should be ok?

Anyway, thanks everyone for your help with this, it has been a learning experience for me.

FYI I bought part 480140102047 on eBay from seller Yeoldespareshoppe. He was extremely helpful and even posted first class at no extra cost. Super seller.

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• SYS49152
• 21 Mar 2015
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• SYS49152
• 21 Mar 2015
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[Morgan19]

That's great you finally solved it. Many people would have given up so it's impressive that you plodded through the learning experience!

 

[yardie]

You may just want to check the heater isn't over heating, i.e thermostat operating at correct temperatures.

Try the different programmes and check the water temp at the different cycles, diff cycles heat at different temps. Manual should help here, they usually specify.

Alternatively remove thermostat and heat whilst monitoring temp to see the cut out temp.

Is the old heater scaled up inside?

 

[SYS49152]

Alternatively remove thermostat and heat whilst monitoring temp to see the cut out temp.

I don't quite understand what you're asking here. Could you explain it a bit more please?

Is the old heater scaled up inside?

Not really. When I removed the pump from the heater a pinkish liquid came out. I'm guessing it's because part of the pump is pink (or maybe it used to white) - getting confused now It was slightly "gritty" though.

The old heater was very clean inside. I don't have a pic handy.

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• SYS49152
• 21 Mar 2015
• 1