Spark plug change - what tools do I need
- Thread starter andyj941
- Start date
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What does everyone think of this socket set? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Expe..._1_4?ie=UTF8&s=diytools&qid=1218706691&sr=8-4
chrome vanadium steel is a good start. Plastic case is handy. Chrome plate is just for show.
I take it you are looking for a basic set suitable for car or bike repairs except that you would be paying for AF sockets but unless it is old, your car or bike will be metric.
It has a 3/8" drive which IMO is too small for car repairs, more suitable for bikes. Even there you will probably end up needing a 1/2" torque wrench for wheel nuts etc. A 22mm socket is IMO too big for a 3/8" drive.
A 1/2" drive is IMO more suitable for for your basic set
On a budget priced socket set the ratchet handle is likely to be the weak point as it will wear and one day break.
Beware of buying a huge socket set with lots of stuff you never need, or can get separately, like 1/4" sets and screwdriver/hex attachments.
Your first buy should be a set of chrome vanadium ring and open ended spanners (not combination) and some good screwdrivers. The open-ended spanners need to be better quality than your rings or sockets as they are more liable to deform under heavy load.
If you manage to get a really good used set, second-hand, from some flash git whose wife is making him clear out stuff he never uses, you might get a really good deal. Young men usually buy lots of tools and never use them. Don't buy cheap tools.
I take it you are looking for a basic set suitable for car or bike repairs except that you would be paying for AF sockets but unless it is old, your car or bike will be metric.
It has a 3/8" drive which IMO is too small for car repairs, more suitable for bikes. Even there you will probably end up needing a 1/2" torque wrench for wheel nuts etc. A 22mm socket is IMO too big for a 3/8" drive.
A 1/2" drive is IMO more suitable for for your basic set
On a budget priced socket set the ratchet handle is likely to be the weak point as it will wear and one day break.
Beware of buying a huge socket set with lots of stuff you never need, or can get separately, like 1/4" sets and screwdriver/hex attachments.
Your first buy should be a set of chrome vanadium ring and open ended spanners (not combination) and some good screwdrivers. The open-ended spanners need to be better quality than your rings or sockets as they are more liable to deform under heavy load.
If you manage to get a really good used set, second-hand, from some flash git whose wife is making him clear out stuff he never uses, you might get a really good deal. Young men usually buy lots of tools and never use them. Don't buy cheap tools.
If you're replacing plugs deep in a cylinder head recess, try fitting a short length of garden hose over the plug and screwing it in by hand first. This allows you to feel what's happening more easily than using a plug spanner, and the hose won't apply much torque if the plug won't screw in properly. A crossed thread in a cylinder head is not very desirable!
At the risk of being contentious, I find I use 3/8 drive sockets far more than I use 1/2 inch when working on cars, especially for the smaller size fasteners (up to 15mm). I find them lighter and easier to use in tight spaces. I agree, however, that 1/2 inch drive is the size to get when starting out buying tools.
At the risk of being contentious, I find I use 3/8 drive sockets far more than I use 1/2 inch when working on cars, especially for the smaller size fasteners (up to 15mm). I find them lighter and easier to use in tight spaces. I agree, however, that 1/2 inch drive is the size to get when starting out buying tools.
I like a 1/2" for most things. but for small fasteners (up to 9mm) a 1/4" drive set is cheap and handy. You rarely need more torque on them than you can apply with the screwdriver-like ratchet handle. As there is so little force on them they don't usually get damaged or worn.
having got a lot of 1/2" stuff I don't feel the need for a 3/8" set.
having got a lot of 1/2" stuff I don't feel the need for a 3/8" set.
Thanks I've just bought the Draper Expert 29362 Metric Chrome Vanadium Socket Set 30pcs. Planning on investing in a torque wrench and trolley jack soon too.
Just a quick question - how important is it to prevent debris falling into the cylinder when you're changing the spark plugs, what effects can it have and is there any remedy for it if it does happen? Hasn't happened to me but someone I know. Cheers
Just a quick question - how important is it to prevent debris falling into the cylinder when you're changing the spark plugs, what effects can it have and is there any remedy for it if it does happen? Hasn't happened to me but someone I know. Cheers
it is EXTREMELY important.
If you spy dirt, you can use a vac cleaner hose, or a garage airline, to clean it away before undoing the plug. If it is oily or sticky, clean that out with a brush and parafin or white spirit and dry it before removing the plug. The oiliness will prevent the dirt being sucked or blown away.
Modern cars usually have good dust covers to keep dirt out. If you drop anything substantial, like a nut, down the hole, you have to get it out before running the engine. A magnet might save you having to take the head off.
If you run the engine with grit and dust in, it will probably blow out fairly soon, but may score the bores and damage the valve seats on its way. Anything that doesn't blow out will bounce up and down on the piston and damage it, and/or the bores and/or the valves and seats.
BTW get some axle stands too. A jack can collapse and this will spoil your day.
If you spy dirt, you can use a vac cleaner hose, or a garage airline, to clean it away before undoing the plug. If it is oily or sticky, clean that out with a brush and parafin or white spirit and dry it before removing the plug. The oiliness will prevent the dirt being sucked or blown away.
Modern cars usually have good dust covers to keep dirt out. If you drop anything substantial, like a nut, down the hole, you have to get it out before running the engine. A magnet might save you having to take the head off.
If you run the engine with grit and dust in, it will probably blow out fairly soon, but may score the bores and damage the valve seats on its way. Anything that doesn't blow out will bounce up and down on the piston and damage it, and/or the bores and/or the valves and seats.
BTW get some axle stands too. A jack can collapse and this will spoil your day.
OK i've passed the info on. With it only being some grime/dust (and not much I must add) that fell in is there any way to clean it out with say an additive to prevent a more serious problem? Nothing like a bolt fell in I hope! And if so fuel or oil additive?
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