Split seath on 2.5mm cable

Joined
14 Oct 2012
Messages
135
Reaction score
7
Location
Hertfordshire
Country
United Kingdom
There is a slight split on the live seath (red) belonging to the 2.5mm cable coming out of a double socket. I have tried to mend it by trying to pass over a seath from a 6mm cable but it's just too tight. Is there an alternative? Could I slide part of the grey outer seath over it?

Thank you.
 
Sponsored Links
The red insulation of a the conductor should not be coming out of a socket outlet, the grey sheath of the all conductors should be protecting the insulation when entering back box.
 
Sorry, I meant the red insulation coming out of the patress box. I have cut a piece of grey seath and it seems to fit around the red insulation.

As I don't have a hot gun, if I were to use heat shrink tubing, could I slide it and leave it as it is, since the split on the insulation is minor?
 
Sponsored Links
Is the split within the enclosure or is it external of it?
As previous the sheath cable should be continuously unexposed along routes, until it enters enclosures of accessories.
If the cable is showing bare within an enclosure then you could heat shrink, heat guns are not over expensive and I am sure a member of family or friend will have one.
 
The split is in the middle of the cable slack. It must have been like that for a few years, probably was done in error with a stanley knife.
 
I would want to switch off the mains at the CU before trying to mend the insulation on the live cable. However how could this be done with a hot air gun when the electricity is off?
 
I would want to switch off the mains at the CU before trying to mend the insulation on the live cable. However how could this be done with a hot air gun when the electricity is off?
Just turn the power of to the circuit you are working on.
Use another circuit and extension cable to power the hot air gun such as the other ring main or the cooker switch socket (if you have them).
 
Just another question while on the subject, I'm going to put my light switch (1 way) on the other side of the door. I want to use a 10Amp terminal block in the existing light switch before putting a blank plate on it and connect the 1.5mm cables for the other light switch. Shall I leave the two terminals from the block next to each other or should I find a way to create a distance between them (like you find a gap between the L and N in sockets for example)?
 
There should be three terminals if a CPC(earth) is present.
You can get some blank plates that have terminal points integrally fitted. But just leave the terminal (choc block) in a three way block and should be quite safe.
 
I want to use a 10Amp terminal block in the existing light switch
5A will do, and be easier to fit in.


Shall I leave the two terminals from the block next to each other or should I find a way to create a distance between them
Terminal blocks are designed to be used with the segments still joined together.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top