stitch drilling clean up

[PMGoneRogue]

Hi guys,

First time posting here so go easy on me.


Short version
I have a stitch drilled knockthrough that looks pretty rough, the bricks didn't really hold up that well, and I need to smooth down whats left to either plaster over or potentially add something else for structural support. I have many options open to me to smooth the jagged drilled edges into something more workable, which is the best?

Long version
I'm doing a timberframe extension onto a 1960s brick house. I've had a guy in to do a knockthrough from an existing room into the new area through a cavity wall. He's done work for me before, I trust him and know he does a good job. He opted to stitch-drill the opening as it would create less dust inside the house. The result looks messy and some of the older bricks have disintegrated. He says plaster will cover it but I'd prefer to smooth off the edges to either make it easier or potentially add something else if the bricks are too damaged and building control want me to beef it up.

Now... do I hire a power tool (cut off saw, masonry chainsaw) to do the job quick and smooth(ish) but create lots of dust, or do I buy a masonry hand saw and do it the slow but clean way? Or am I worrying about nothing, this is normal, building control won't care and the plaster will go smoothly?

Thanks in advance

 

[cdbe]

Nothing wrong with that, if it's being boarded with plasterboard from the left hand wall you'll probably need to make sure nothing projects more than about 10-15mm.

 

[^woody^]

No issue at all with that corner as long as it's sufficiently cut back enough to fit the plaster work.

Btw, is that an outside leaf on the left, which is now internal?

You'll also need to put a vertical DPC in that cavity and close it with something like expanding foam.

 

[PMGoneRogue]

Thanks for the quick replies.

Woody, No, it's an internal leaf, the right hand side used to be external but the wall continues on for another 300mm before it see's the outside world now. The photo is taken from inside the original room and into the extension.

 

[^woody^]

Oh, OK, just foam then no DPC

 

[noseall]

Oh, OK, just foam then no DPC

If we fill in a knock-through cavity wall gap with masonry, we still use a wee bit of (U shaped) DPC at the bottom. I'm convinced that the few times I've seen damp issues with knock-through wall reveals, its down to this wee oversight.