Suzuki Jimny - Water reserve tank boiling over?
- Thread starter shorn
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Surely if it was a blocked radiator the boiling would occur when the engine is working i.e. a drive on the motorway.davieboy said:
Regards - J
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He / she changed the engine with out knowing why --- The guage says 'not overheating' but the coolant seems to be indicating something else..
The poster mentioned problem being 'off and on'
The natural forced draught through radiator when driving at normal speeds can mask a recalcitrant electric fan .. Overheating problem may then build whilst stationary, driving at low speed and/or in high ambient temps.
Simple check .. does it work or not?
Edit - I once owned a Renault 16, the coolant sysetm under anything more than expansion bottle top up, required bleeding beyond the norm for most vehicles, at least two pipes required clamping at various times in the process ... Would not have known without the old standby Haynes manual, not perfect but not bad... Some vehicles may just be 'odd'.
I am sure there is a Suzuki owners forum on the web.. try a google.
The poster mentioned problem being 'off and on'
The natural forced draught through radiator when driving at normal speeds can mask a recalcitrant electric fan .. Overheating problem may then build whilst stationary, driving at low speed and/or in high ambient temps.
Simple check .. does it work or not?
Edit - I once owned a Renault 16, the coolant sysetm under anything more than expansion bottle top up, required bleeding beyond the norm for most vehicles, at least two pipes required clamping at various times in the process ... Would not have known without the old standby Haynes manual, not perfect but not bad... Some vehicles may just be 'odd'.
I am sure there is a Suzuki owners forum on the web.. try a google.
sorry, for not appearing to take the advice mentioned, it seems to have by passed me (The radiator cap)
Can I just clarify what cap people are talking about.
I have a cap (Pressured one) on top of the radiator. (im guessing this is the one people mean)
Other than that I have a plastic cap on teh reserve tank, but that is not really a sealed one or anything like that.
If it is the rad cap I need to test, how would i test/replace it ? If it was faulty, would it be leaking water? (cos at the mo it is not) Are they standard or will I need to go to suzuki to get a new one??
Thanks!
Can I just clarify what cap people are talking about.
I have a cap (Pressured one) on top of the radiator. (im guessing this is the one people mean)
Other than that I have a plastic cap on teh reserve tank, but that is not really a sealed one or anything like that.
If it is the rad cap I need to test, how would i test/replace it ? If it was faulty, would it be leaking water? (cos at the mo it is not) Are they standard or will I need to go to suzuki to get a new one??
Thanks!
With regards to why the first engine was replaced...
the oil pump stopped working, therefore the oil level was reading fine, but oil was not being pumped up into the engine, and eventually it ceased. First thing we knew about it was when it ceased up on the road. Brke the camshaft. I was able to source a reasonable priced replacement from a 2002 jimny, from a reputable seller and went for a staright swap.
the oil pump stopped working, therefore the oil level was reading fine, but oil was not being pumped up into the engine, and eventually it ceased. First thing we knew about it was when it ceased up on the road. Brke the camshaft. I was able to source a reasonable priced replacement from a 2002 jimny, from a reputable seller and went for a staright swap.
It will be the one on the expansion bottle.shorn said:
johnb80 said:
Apologies to johnb80 for this, but I think it's the radiator cap.
My error was forgetting that some cars have both rad cap and expansion vessel. If water is regularly escaping into the expansion via the little tube on the boss where the rad caps fits, then the rad cap is faulty.
You need to get the correct cap - the main dealer isn't necessarily the only place to get one, but you'd more certain of getting the correct part.
Or maybe someone replaced the pressure cap on the expansion bottle with a plastic one? Difficult, don't know the full history or the underbonnet layout of this vehicle.Softus said:
Regards - JB
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Cap will be similar to this:-
Have a closer look - probably more to it than you thought. Essentially two valves in the cap: main - one way rad to expansion - 'vent' (within main) one way expansion to rad.
Does cap fit the rad neck properly, using both 'lugs' to pul down on turning?
Rad neck 'pull down' cam features can sometimes be distorted by 'ham fisted' cap fitting.
A decent garage workshop will have similar to this .. most probably NOT tool number C4080 but a general tool
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Have a closer look - probably more to it than you thought.
Essentially two valves in the cap: main - one way rad to expansion - 'vent' (within main) one way expansion to rad.Does cap fit the rad neck properly, using both 'lugs' to pul down on turning?
Rad neck 'pull down' cam features can sometimes be distorted by 'ham fisted' cap fitting.
A decent garage workshop will have similar to this .. most probably NOT tool number C4080 but a general tool
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Get yourself down here ... http://www.suzukitech.org/
Work-S Manual? 53MB down load look here ..
http://www.jimny.se/technical.html
Work-S Manual? 53MB down load look here ..
http://www.jimny.se/technical.html
I think you should establish a few things first.
1) Is the water circulating (leave the rad.cap off while warming up)
2) Is the heater(not the fan) turned onto HOT
3) Check both heater pipes going to and from the bulkhead are getting warm.
4) Check pipes to and from the water pump are getting warm
If you doubt any of the above then it could be air-locked,I would drain the system again and refill following the bleed instructions (if any).If you need to get a rad.cap it is rated at 0.9 bar (13.05 psi)
1) Is the water circulating (leave the rad.cap off while warming up)
2) Is the heater(not the fan) turned onto HOT
3) Check both heater pipes going to and from the bulkhead are getting warm.
4) Check pipes to and from the water pump are getting warm
If you doubt any of the above then it could be air-locked,I would drain the system again and refill following the bleed instructions (if any).If you need to get a rad.cap it is rated at 0.9 bar (13.05 psi)
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