Temporary/Semi-Permanent removal of Radiator - no drain down

[DJM]

Long story to do with dry rot, but to be brief, we are having a room replastered and need to remove the radiator (probably to be replaced by a new one).

As the plaster still needs to be hacked off the wall behind the rad and Xmas fast approaching, it is possible that the rad will have to be off for a few months. System is not presurised and gravity fed.

So questions are:

1) Can I remove the rad without draining down the system (it has a Drayton TRV4 if that makes any difference)

2) Is it an issue to leave the rad out of the system (accepting the balance of the remaining rads will be wrong)

4) If leaving the rad out is OK, what do I need to do to the flow and return pipes (stop ends?)

5) As I am really short of time due to work pressures, is this an expensive job to get a plumber in for. I know it's not really a big job and most plumbers probably wouldn't really be interested, but I do want to replace probably 4 other rads which could be done later but at the same time as re-fitting this rad.

 

[Lower]

Just close the lock shield valve and the TRV. Then you can drain down the rad and remove it.

Assuming you have a conventional system, it should make little difference to the operation of the rest of the heating system.

 

[DJM]

Just close the lock shield valve and the TRV. Then you can drain down the rad and remove it.

Assuming you have a conventional system, it should make little difference to the operation of the rest of the heating system.

Thanks for the reply.

Do you mean close lock shield and TRV and then undo connections to the rad itself. Drain just tha rad, remove and leave withthe lockshied and TRV as the closures in the system?

 

[Lower]

Correct. The lockshield and trv will stop the water from draining out of the rest of the system. You can then loosen the rad tail to valve connections and drain the radiator.

 

[expertgasman]

Whoa! Be careful with advice!

OP, be aware that the "off" seting on the TRV is actually a "frost" setting. If the temp. lowers enough (in the room), the valve will open and squirt water everywhere. But it is straightforward. When the TRVs were fited the plumber should have left some blue caps. Remove the head and screw on the blue cap, this effectively shuts off the water like a manual valve. If you have no access to the caps, then just fit a 1/2" iron cap onto the outlet, using some Polytetrafluoroethylene tape.

It IS an easy job, but use plastic sheting under an absorbent dust sheet, just in case. DON'T open bleed valve when removing the nuts, and don't underestimate the weight or awkrardness (?) of moving the rad. Use an assisitant if you can.

Good luck, but keep a plumbers phone number to hand

 

[DJM]

Thanks for the replies.

I do have the TRV caps and have used them for decorating in the past.

Expertgasman you say dont open the bleed valve, why?

I had assumed the easiest way to drain the rad would be to disconnect one end of the rad from the valve and open the bleed valve to allow water out into a basin and air in at the top. Once empty, undo the other end and with a glamerous assistant - or failing that my brother in law - lift the empty rad off the wall.

 

[jackthom]

It's OK opening a bleed vave as long as you can keep the flow of water under control and are ready to catch that horrible black stuff that's likely to come out.

 

[Lower]

Whoa! Be careful with advice!

OP, be aware that the "off" seting on the TRV is actually a "frost" setting. If the temp. lowers enough (in the room), the valve will open and squirt water everywhere. But it is straightforward. When the TRVs were fited the plumber should have left some blue caps. Remove the head and screw on the blue cap, this effectively shuts off the water like a manual valve. If you have no access to the caps, then just fit a 1/2" iron cap onto the outlet, using some Polytetrafluoroethylene tape.

It IS an easy job, but use plastic sheting under an absorbent dust sheet, just in case. DON'T open bleed valve when removing the nuts, and don't underestimate the weight or awkrardness (?) of moving the rad. Use an assisitant if you can.

Good luck, but keep a plumbers phone number to hand

Fair point about the frost setting.

You could just take the head off the TRV which would also stop it operating. But capping the outlet is the safest option.

 

[expertgasman]

Fair point about the frost setting.

You could just take the head off the TRV which would also stop it operating. But capping the outlet is the safest option.[/quote]

Er, NO! Lower, I obviously don't know your background, but I'm afraid you misunderstand the operation of a TRV. If you just take off the head, the valve will be FULLY open. And squirty.

OP. I said dont open bleed valves, as I would "snatch" the rad. Undo one end and fit a compression cap. Repeat other end. Lift off rad complete with water.

You can, of course, do it your way, but be careful of that black stuff!