Terminating stranded cable

Why can't you do as Iggifier says? If the cable is that bad then replace the whole cable.
 
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Why can't you do as Iggifier says? If the cable is that bad then replace the whole cable.

I've plastered over the channel where the cable lies now, there's nothing wrong with the cable, it's the attached power cable that came with the fire. I'm just looking for a better way to terminate the strands.

I bought a ratcheted crimp tool today http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-ratchet-crimping-tool/70036 < that one. Will that work on bootlace ferrules ?[/url]
 
nope that is for tube, eyelet etc crimps where you crimp onto the plastic of the crimp

With a bootlace you crimp on the tin

What kind of flex have you used? Even the thinnest stranded flex I have used has had no problem being bent over and terminated
 
The problem with those is that the quality of the crimp depends entirely on the skill and experience of the operator. Poorly made crimp joints can look OK, and even withstand a pull test, but overheat over time, causing a fire risk. That's why ratchet crimpers came into use.
But the ferrules really aren't "crimp terminals" in that sense. The tube is so thin that no amount of crimping is going to make a tight joint on it, but it's the pressure from the screw that makes the connection secure. So all the crimp is really there for is a) reduce the size of the tube so it's a close fit on the wire and make it take less room in the terminal, and b) stop it falling off before you've done the screw up.

've plastered over the channel where the cable lies now, there's nothing wrong with the cable, it's the attached power cable that came with the fire. I'm just looking for a better way to terminate the strands.
I read that as you've plastered in the flex that's attached to the appliance.
I bought a ratcheted crimp tool today http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-ratchet-crimping-tool/70036 < that one. Will that work on bootlace ferrules ?[/url]
No, the terminals are completely different.

Also, be aware that bootlace ferrules come in two different colour codes (German and French) and without any plastic altogether - as pointed out, it's primarily there to act as a funnel to make them easier to fit.. My experience is that a lot of fittings won't take cables with the 'insulated' ferrules - there just isn't enough room.
Fitting ferrules is the way to go, but be aware that you can still (if 'a bit ham fisted') tighten the screw through it and start cutting the strands.
 
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The tube is so thin that no amount of crimping is going to make a tight joint on it, but it's the pressure from the screw that makes the connection secure. So all the crimp is really there for is a) reduce the size of the tube so it's a close fit on the wire and make it take less room in the terminal, and b) stop it falling off before you've done the screw up

Can't say I fully agree with that statement
 
No they're not.

Yes they are.

You slip 'em on and crimp then.

tlcrmp-16174b.jpg
 
I would consider a crimp as being something that when crimped down makes a good mechanical connection. I would not consider bootlace ferrules as fitting that description - there just in't enough metal in them (or at least all the ones I've seen).
 
I would consider a crimp as being something that when crimped down makes a good mechanical connection. I would not consider bootlace ferrules as fitting that description - there just in't enough metal in them (or at least all the ones I've seen).

You ain't doing them right then.

I've never had one fail

;)
 
Yes ok. I think I should have said insulated and uninsulated ferrules.

I was thinking about the ones in the picture posted by BAS
M072043P01WS.jpg

when I would agree with SimonH2 that if the OP's wire is so delicate then the ferrule is used to stop the terminal screw tearing or going right through the strands and not actually 'crimped' to any useful degree.
 
But the ferrules really aren't "crimp terminals" in that sense. The tube is so thin that no amount of crimping is going to make a tight joint on it, but it's the pressure from the screw that makes the connection secure.
Going back in time I recall there were ferrules designed to be crushed by the terminal screw without prior crimping. They did protect the strands from being cut by the rotating screw as it put pressure on the wire. They were very thin metal. The trick with then was to strip the wire longer than the ferrule and fold the excess back over the ferrule to stop the ferrule falling of the wire before it was put in the terminal and "crimped" ( crushed ) by the screw.
 
I would consider a crimp as being something that when crimped down makes a good mechanical connection. I would not consider bootlace ferrules as fitting that description - there just in't enough metal in them (or at least all the ones I've seen).

You ain't doing them right then.

I've never had one fail
Well neither have I - once they're under the terminal screw/clamp then completely secure. I've also noted that when working in control panels at work (built by others), all the ferrules are squashed to the shape of the clamp which would not be the case with "crimps".
 
In the past I have solder the end of stranded wire in the plugs, anything wrong with this method?
 

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