You want the 7Ah version. Europlex is thinking of the metal panel. The only battery specified for your plastic panel is a 7Ah. The 17Ah won't fit.
Texecom Premier 24
- Thread starter Northbeach
- Start date
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Cheers. It's not so much the panel (although it's pleasing to find out I can pick up filters) but the short run of alarm cables directly past the CU - pretty much the only place I couldn't divert or shift the six core given the space you have to contend with.
Many thanks.
A filter fitted in the panel should take away any induced AC picked up by the cables.
Ah - it's not that clear in the online manual (for the texecom premier 24), at least the pictorial element (which states 1 x 7ah, 2 x 7ah or 1 x 17h). However, further on it does indeed refer to the metal housing. They do supply this kit with the 3ah battery as standard, so I'll see what the cost is for the 7ah - shouldn't be much I suspect, but we're having to count every penny for this (draining!) project.
Will look at those filters too.
Many thanks pcaouolte.
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I phoned alert electrical and they'll happily replace the battery for the 7ah - there's a price difference of about a quid, so no brainer really (erm, not forgetting the return postage!).
Another potential banana skin however: Noticed the french doors are a bit of a conundrum. The centre bar doesn't fit flush with the closed door - it juts out a fair bit (15mm ish) and is also curved making those contacts difficult (impossible?) to fit:
Any ideas? Try and fit the flush/recess versions? I have to order a couple more contacts anyhow as I noticed they do a brown version which will match my front and back wooden doors.
Cheers.
Another potential banana skin however: Noticed the french doors are a bit of a conundrum. The centre bar doesn't fit flush with the closed door - it juts out a fair bit (15mm ish) and is also curved making those contacts difficult (impossible?) to fit:
Any ideas? Try and fit the flush/recess versions? I have to order a couple more contacts anyhow as I noticed they do a brown version which will match my front and back wooden doors.
Cheers.
Often the magnet of a normal rectangular surface mount contact will (just) fit in the groove in the top edge of a plastic door (sometimes you need to cut a tiny bit of plastic away to get it in the groove) with the contact fixed to the frame above it, there is often just enough gap between door and frame to make this work.
Otherwise consider removing the magnet from its housing and glueing it into the slot in the door.
The wire can be routed within the hollow frame with a bit of patience. This lets you have a contact which is completely hidden when the doors are closed. Beware that drilling any holes in PVC frames can void the warranty if you have one.
Otherwise consider removing the magnet from its housing and glueing it into the slot in the door.
The wire can be routed within the hollow frame with a bit of patience. This lets you have a contact which is completely hidden when the doors are closed. Beware that drilling any holes in PVC frames can void the warranty if you have one.
Just wanted to say thanks to the OP and all other contributors to this thread - going to be a big help when I get around to installing my own Texecom Premier system.
Just wanted to add, in our old house we had a replacement UPVC door with an annoying rounded profile that meant the normal contact wouldn't go back on - I found larger contacts, specifically for this scenario, that have bigger/stronger magnets and hence work across a slightly bigger gap.
Could be an option if the other suggestions don't work out.
Just wanted to add, in our old house we had a replacement UPVC door with an annoying rounded profile that meant the normal contact wouldn't go back on - I found larger contacts, specifically for this scenario, that have bigger/stronger magnets and hence work across a slightly bigger gap.
Could be an option if the other suggestions don't work out.
Piccys
Magnet:
Contact:
Magnet:
That potential banana skin turned out to be anything but then.
That option works beautifully - I've placed the magnet and contact in the top of the frame and groove in the top of the door, and there couldn't be a better fit. I've not fixed them or wired yet, but slotted them in and made sure the door would close without anything sticking etc.
Perfect.
I'll post a pic, although your pics illustrated it to the T.
Thanks.
BTW - the back door opens outwards, meaning I have to place the contact facing into the porch (which is secure - but there's nothing in there except the fridge) rather than into the house as per the front door. I can't see a problem with this...but I try not to second guess too many things
I managed to find an better path to the panel from the back door (less ceiling to channel into) but involved making a route from the porch - into the kitchen - up through the kitchen ceiling - underneath the shower in the bathroom above through into the living room - back into the hall which houses the panel! Was up in the loft (in the lovely, itchy insulation) last night routing the upstairs smoke detector, bedroom RKP and upstairs hall PIR. Just need to wire the french door, the entry PIR in the hall and the bellbox and that's pretty much it. I'll add some pics as and when.
I cannot wait for the stage where the ceilings are back up and the plasterer arrives to sprinkle their magic skim
Many thanks again!
I hope it helps - there should be enough info on this thread to make life a heck of a lot easier when you carry your own install out. Glad I persevered, as it was a little daunting.
We did contact an engineer when we moved in last year, but he mucked us around a bit (that was for a wireless system too). Purchased this kit for about the same price as the quote for the wireless install. Our project budget ran dry, hence having to take a stab at doing most of the stuff ourselves. Obviously, doing it this way (at least for me personally) means it takes 10x as long, but we've managed to keep the finances in check.
Thanks for the UPVC contacts tip too - pretty sure I'm going to get away with dropping them in the frame and grooves of the door thankfully.
Btw - the 3ah battery - the cheapest postage option to send it back was only a little less than the battery cost itself (they're fairly heavy!). I can't claim the delivery back as the battery isn't at fault. I'll keep this for the time being and upgrade in the future to the 7ah.
I don't really understand this bit but if its a surface mounted contact it needs to go within the protected area, this means the inside of the door not the outside. It is very easy for a burglar to remove a surface contact that he can see without setting off the alarm (just in case he doesn't know, I'm not going to tell him how to do it on here). The cable to it should also be within the protected area.
If this was supplied as a kit then the supplier is at fault for supplying a battery which is not specified for use with the panel. I don't know what happens to the battery or the charger when the wrong battery is connected and personally, for the cost of a battery, I wouldn't be finding out!
BTW - the back door opens outwards, meaning I have to place the contact facing into the porch (which is secure - but there's nothing in there except the fridge) rather than into the house as per the front door. I can't see a problem with this...but I try not to second guess too many things
I managed to find an better path to the panel from the back door (less ceiling to channel into) but involved making a route from the porch - into the kitchen - up through the kitchen ceiling - underneath the shower in the bathroom above through into the living room - back into the hall which houses the panel! Was up in the loft (in the lovely, itchy insulation) last night routing the upstairs smoke detector, bedroom RKP and upstairs hall PIR. Just need to wire the french door, the entry PIR in the hall and the bellbox and that's pretty much it. I'll add some pics as and when.
I cannot wait for the stage where the ceilings are back up and the plasterer arrives to sprinkle their magic skim
Many thanks again!
can't you use a flush mount sensor...just fitted mine today. Takes a 20mm flat drill bit and drill through the frame out of the wall at an angle and you can run the wire through the back of the frame and put the magnet in the door...
Any use?
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