Oh my god........this is starting to sound tricky now! I think I am going to have to get someone in that knows what they are doing...I don't want to cause a fire or anything.
Thermostat in hall suspected not to work?
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Pragmatically, you're more likely to blow a fuse than cause a fire, but yes you need to know which wire is which so that you can install a new thermostat correctly.
If you don't have a multimeter then start by getting one.
Identify the incoming live to the existing thermostat. This should be easy.
If the old thermostat still operates (albeit at the wrong temperature) then use the multimeter to determine which of the remaining two terminals is the switched live (i.e. the one that becomes live when the dial is turned up).
At the programmer end, find the three wires, and determine whether those two wires go. The live should come come from a programmer 'CH On' terminal, and the switched live to a motorised valve (if you have one) or to the boiler/pump connection (if you don't).
I would expect the third wire to be connected to a bunch of neutrals somewhere. The fact that the insulation might suggest otherwise is irrelevant - you need to know where it goes.
If the green-yellow wire goes to earth, then it's possible that your old roomstat is a two-wire one, but just as likely that someone's wired it up wrong.
BTW, if it does turn out that the green/yellow coated wire is a neutral, then I'd slide some blue sleeving over it (at both ends) to avoid future confusion, and if you don't do this then you're indirectly breaching the Building Regulations and thereby breaking the law.
If you don't have a multimeter then start by getting one.
Identify the incoming live to the existing thermostat. This should be easy.
If the old thermostat still operates (albeit at the wrong temperature) then use the multimeter to determine which of the remaining two terminals is the switched live (i.e. the one that becomes live when the dial is turned up).
At the programmer end, find the three wires, and determine whether those two wires go. The live should come come from a programmer 'CH On' terminal, and the switched live to a motorised valve (if you have one) or to the boiler/pump connection (if you don't).
I would expect the third wire to be connected to a bunch of neutrals somewhere. The fact that the insulation might suggest otherwise is irrelevant - you need to know where it goes.
If the green-yellow wire goes to earth, then it's possible that your old roomstat is a two-wire one, but just as likely that someone's wired it up wrong.
BTW, if it does turn out that the green/yellow coated wire is a neutral, then I'd slide some blue sleeving over it (at both ends) to avoid future confusion, and if you don't do this then you're indirectly breaching the Building Regulations and thereby breaking the law.
Looked up towerstat RS product spec. It specifies a accelerator heater so that would suggest your stat has 'live', 'switched live' and 'neutral' but what is your green/yellow wire connected to at the other end?
Hi MANDATE.
I have not got the foggiest idea what the "Earth" wire is connected to. Would anyone be so silly as to connect it to a live wire? It's got to be an earth.....surely????? If you want to come round and check it out be my guest. The whole thing is driving me round the twist to be honest and I just want to get it sorted so we can use our central heating properly and efficiently.
So, what does "It specifies a accelerator heater so that would suggest your stat has 'live', 'switched live' and 'neutral'" mean? Sorry.
Should I just buy another thermostat......mmmmm really need to find out what that earth connects to hey?
Thanks
I have not got the foggiest idea what the "Earth" wire is connected to. Would anyone be so silly as to connect it to a live wire? It's got to be an earth.....surely????? If you want to come round and check it out be my guest. The whole thing is driving me round the twist to be honest and I just want to get it sorted so we can use our central heating properly and efficiently.
So, what does "It specifies a accelerator heater so that would suggest your stat has 'live', 'switched live' and 'neutral'" mean? Sorry.
Should I just buy another thermostat......mmmmm really need to find out what that earth connects to hey?
Thanks
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Jeez, why didn't someone just look the bloody thing up??
It took all of 15 seconds to find the data sheet .
That lowest terminal should be neutral but someone might have connected it anywhere.
Get yourself a new digital thermostat and you will only need the other two wires anyway - make the "earth" one safe.
It took all of 15 seconds to find the data sheet .
That lowest terminal should be neutral but someone might have connected it anywhere.
Get yourself a new digital thermostat and you will only need the other two wires anyway - make the "earth" one safe.
Hello ChrisR.
For some reason, the info on the datasheet is a slightly different layout to the one I have at home...must be a newer model (God knows why they don't give new products new model numbers). Anyway, so how many wires are there on a standard thermostat? I am worried that when I buy a new one, I ain't going to have a clue which wires go where. because of the sheer dodgieness / bodgieness of the wiring...and I am not totally incompetent with electrics (despite what I have written in previous posts!!!!!)
For some reason, the info on the datasheet is a slightly different layout to the one I have at home...must be a newer model (God knows why they don't give new products new model numbers). Anyway, so how many wires are there on a standard thermostat? I am worried that when I buy a new one, I ain't going to have a clue which wires go where. because of the sheer dodgieness / bodgieness of the wiring...and I am not totally incompetent with electrics (despite what I have written in previous posts!!!!!)
All you have to do is (a) test to prove which is the 'live' wire of the three(b) test to prove which is the 'switched live' wire of the three (the one that becomes live when you turn the stat up) and (c) prove by tracing the remaining wire to veryify it goes to a neutral.
If for some reason it goes to earth, then it will need changing to a neutral terminal for the replacement stat.
Also if the green/yellow ( colour for earth) does turn out to be a neutral, then each end should have blue sleeve or flag so not to mislead anyone in the future.
Note I've avoided using colours because they can mislead you, there ok for tracing, but you can't just assume a red is live and a black is neutral and green yellow is earth.
Once you know which is which, fitting the replacement is straight forward.
If for some reason it goes to earth, then it will need changing to a neutral terminal for the replacement stat.
Also if the green/yellow ( colour for earth) does turn out to be a neutral, then each end should have blue sleeve or flag so not to mislead anyone in the future.
Note I've avoided using colours because they can mislead you, there ok for tracing, but you can't just assume a red is live and a black is neutral and green yellow is earth.
Once you know which is which, fitting the replacement is straight forward.
Maybe somebody could help me!
I have recently moved into a new house & it use the towerstat rs.
The problem is that it doesn't turn down the heating when its on & it gets roasting hot, the only way is to turn of the heating in the airing cupboard.
I have recently moved into a new house & it use the towerstat rs.
The problem is that it doesn't turn down the heating when its on & it gets roasting hot, the only way is to turn of the heating in the airing cupboard.
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