tiling over old tile glue

[Help]

Hi,

I have stripped tiles from my downstairs toilet, with the intention of retiling.

I've never tiled nor plastered but want to try my hand at whatever is necessary.

My question is this: having removed the tiles most of the plaster board has remained intact. However, there is a fair degree of tile glue leftover. What is the next step in getting a smooth surface before retiling? Should I plaster over the glue or should I just replace the plaster board?

 

[david and julie]

You could try a wall paper stripper first, the steam sometimes breaks down the old adhesive. You don't need a perfect finish for tiling just reasonably flat. There is plenty of advice on this site about marking out etc, having a read for a while will pay dividends.

You may open a can of worms if you remove the plasterboard for the sake of it.

I find it helps if you paint the wall with emulsion or sealer first to stop the adhesive drying to quickly. Especially if you do replace the the plasterboard.

Good Luck

 

[Help]

Thanks for the reply.I don't have a steamer (nor able to borrow one in the near future). The glue isn't that thick, so I'm thinking a thin layer of plaster would cover it? (This is more me thinking logically than knowledgeably, mind).

 

[david and julie]

Yes you can skim the wall, but you said you've not plastered before and it is not as easy as you think!

Plastering and tiling (indeed most jobs) are more awkward in a toilet because of the lack of room, as you will find!

Good Luck

 

[Help]

thanks.

I'll let you know how I get on.

all the best

 

[bristolmick]

I've just been through a similar problem with my kitchen. What I did was:-
1) Remove as much of the loose old adhesive and paper fragments as possible.
2) Seal the entire area with a 1:5 PVA Water mix. Allow it to soak in and dry. If you do not dilute the PVA so much it won't soak in properly.
3) Apply another coat of pure PVA. Allow it to dry overnight.
4) Apply the new tiles on top

I was advised to do this by my uncle - a builder - who told me that it will stop the plasterboard paper or any exposed plaster from absorbing moisture from the new tiling adhesive.

My tiles have been up for a few weeks now with no complaints thus far.

Having been a novice tiler myself just a few weeks ago, my advice would be:-
1) Time spent marking out and planning is very well spent. My DIY manual was a good source of info. Make a marker stick to help avoid having slivers of tiles at the end of a row. For example, it's better to have a 3/4 tile at each end than one full tile at one end and a half-tile at t'other.
2) When planning and marking out, look at the vertical arrangement as well as the horizontal one as sockets and suchlike can be a problem.
3) Try not to judge your tiling efforts until the grouting is done. It looks a whole lot better. Grouting hides a lot of imperfections.
4) If you've a lot of cutting to do, consider buying an electric cutter. The cost approx. £30 in your local DIY store and are great.

 

[Help]

thank you Bristolmick,

just started enough thread and was advised about the PVA. I well bear all your advice in mind. I do have an electric cutter and I do intend to plan carefully. Just need to locate the right tiles now and then I can plan away.

 

[david and julie]

Although electric tile cutters are good, they are not essential.

The best ordinary tile cutter I have found is the plasplugs angle master. It measures gaps and angles easily, automatically allows for grout lines and you don't even need a tape measure to use it! There is also no noise or dust. Cost about £12-£15 from B+Q or similar.

An electric cutter is better for notching corners out etc. or thicker floor tiles. But in an enclosed area like a toilet they can make the job harder.

Your biggest help in a small area is keep tidying up, don't let the c--p build up around you! Make sure you wear a visor when using you cutter the shards are like tiny razor blades, they stick in eyes and skin.

 

[Help]

Is primer sealer the same sort of stuff as unibond?

 

[masona]

Yes

 

[Help]

Got my first wall done at the wknd and, touch wood, all looks OK.

Thanks for everyone's advice.

 

[AFH Dan]

having removed the tiles most of the plaster board has remained intact. However, there is a fair degree of tile glue leftover. What is the next step in getting a smooth surface before retiling? Should I plaster over the glue or should I just replace the plaster board?

If it is Class B adhesive it will break back down with water. If it is Class AA adhesive it will need sanding. We use a big belt sander at the training centre to get the adhesive off the walls.

Hope this helps.

Regards
PITT Dan