Toilet blockage, Soil pipe leaking outside

[stevenaive]

The plastic pipe coming from our toilet runs horizontally into an old (cast iron?) soil stack.

It's peeing water from the connection.

THe water is going into next door's drive so I'm reluctant to leave it over the weekend.

I only noticed because the toilet wouldn't flush, I managed to unblock it with some plunging but now it's gurgling.

Could it be that a blockage in the drain is causing pressure, and that is making the joint weep?

If so, will unblocking the drain allow the joint to settle down - or does it need replacing?

Ballpark for a proper repair to the joint?

Would really appreciate any answers before I call a plumber, on a saturday

Edit: lifted outside drain cover, no water backed up there.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Blocked soil stack.

Get it jetted.

Andy

 

[stevenaive]

Blocked soil stack.

Get it jetted.

Andy

What does that mean?

I have a jet washer and am about to spray it down the toilet.

Convinced this will work!

 

[ALCPlumbing]

It won't. If you're just going to spray it into the pan you would be better off flushing the toilet. You need to get it properly jetted or rodded at the bare minimum. Obviously if there is a blockage and the pipe is holding water then any pipes that aren't properly sealed will leak but it should be properly sealed.
How has the plastic been connected to the cast iron. It should be done with a rubber fernco coupling which has a jubilee clip at either end. If it has been done like this it may just need tightening.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Post a picture of the outside of your soil stack

Andy

 

[stevenaive]

It won't. If you're just going to spray it into the pan you would be better off flushing the toilet. You need to get it properly jetted or rodded at the bare minimum. Obviously if there is a blockage and the pipe is holding water then any pipes that aren't properly sealed will leak but it should be properly sealed.
How has the plastic been connected to the cast iron. It should be done with a rubber fernco coupling which has a jubilee clip at either end. If it has been done like this it may just need tightening.

Only kidding, Andy. But where does the rodding/jetting take place?
In the manhole, direction of the big standing pipe?

I don't know about the joint, only just moved in, can't see a jubilee clip.

I can see some of the nasty old paint from the old pipe has been separated an inch along the new plastic pipe. Makes it look as if the plastic pipe has come away a good inch or so - but it's still connected, if that makes sense?

 

[HERTS P&D]

If the water in the toilet is at its normal level, flush the toilet.
Does the water in the toilet rise up and stay there? If so you have a blocked toilet.

Open the manhole, is it empty? It should be.

Is the branch leading from the toilet connected to the soil stack leaking? Then you have a blocked stack.

I would normally jet up the soil stack from the manhole.

Post some pictures.


Andy

 

[stevenaive]

If the water in the toilet is at its normal level, flush the toilet.
Does the water in the toilet rise up and stay there? If so you have a blocked toilet.

Open the manhole, is it empty? It should be.

Is the branch leading from the toilet connected to the soil stack leaking? Then you have a blocked stack.

I would normally jet up the soil stack from the manhole.

Post some pictures.


Andy

Yeah the manhole is empty but there's a leak.

I only have a karcher handy so will have to call out the professionals.

Cheers for the help.

 

[stevenaive]

Pics.

Definitely not coming through the main drain when flushing so blocked in the stack, as Andy said.

Going to try and get rods up there and reattach the plastic pipe.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Stack looks to me like it's made of asbestos cement rather than cast, so try not to disturb it too much as it wont have the strength of cast.

 

[stevenaive]

Stack looks to me like it's made of asbestos cement rather than cast, so try not to disturb it too much as it wont have the strength of cast.

Thanks. I'm not sure what to do with it, other than carefully push the plastic pipe back in.

Phoned a plumber today and he wanted 125 quid just to come out and (I assume) unblock the stack. 'No call out fee 24/7' indeed!

Off to b&q to buy some drain rods. Wish me luck...

 

[HERTS P&D]

Don't use rods, get it jetted. But it might be a time to fit a new soil stack.

Andy

 

[stevenaive]

Don't use rods, get it jetted. But it might be a time to fit a new soil stack.

Andy

Yeah I'd like a new soil stack fitted but god knows how much that is going to cost. Plus, with it being asbestos (I think) that is only going to add to the bill.

Only just moved in so can't get everything done at once.

I've got a karcher here and might try and buy their drain attachment.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

A new stack, if you fit it yourself will cost about £100ish for the parts, we'll happily talk you through how to do it, as long as you provide plenty of pics as required so we can see what you're trying to achieve.

If you have a long enough ladder, a decent hammer drill, the time and a dry day or 2 it's not a difficult job. Main difficulties are usually connecting to the drain at ground level, and going through the eaves, (unless vent 'swan necks' around the edge of the roof). The section from the pan through the wall is already plastic, so just a case of renewing the vertical section, and joining the existing horizontal section (properly!).

Check the local council website, most offer a free disposal service for small quantities of bonded asbestos. When you take the stack down, keep it damp, try to avoid breaking it any more than necessary and wear a suitable dust mask and paper overalls, bin them when finished. You'll be outside so any risk from stray fibres should be negligible.

 

[stevenaive]

A new stack, if you fit it yourself will cost about £100ish for the parts, we'll happily talk you through how to do it, as long as you provide plenty of pics as required so we can see what you're trying to achieve.

If you have a long enough ladder, a decent hammer drill, the time and a dry day or 2 it's not a difficult job. Main difficulties are usually connecting to the drain at ground level, and going through the eaves, (unless vent 'swan necks' around the edge of the roof). The section from the pan through the wall is already plastic, so just a case of renewing the vertical section, and joining the existing horizontal section (properly!).

Check the local council website, most offer a free disposal service for small quantities of bonded asbestos. When you take the stack down, keep it damp, try to avoid breaking it any more than necessary and wear a suitable dust mask and paper overalls, bin them when finished. You'll be outside so any risk from stray fibres should be negligible.

Thanks for the offer of advice but I am terrified of heights!

Completely out of the question for a DIY job, and yes it does annoy the hell out of me. And my wallet.