What is the best way to fit a new "P" trap toilet to a 100mm cast iron collar?
Toilet connection
- Thread starter harrydj
- Start date
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A Multikwik™ + an extension Multikwik
Is a Multikwik OK for a Cast Iron Collar?
Yes you can connect the extension deep through the socket and make a join on the pipe. Sometimes you can get away without the extension.
To actually have to connect to cast iron is a pretty rare event. Mostly there is actually a lead bend with a brass collar that you connect the pan to. This collar is usually so minging that you often think it is Cast Iron. I anticipated this in my original post and in these cases I would cut the lead flush to the wall and then use the MQ and extension. This method gets you over another problem. The standard outlet height centre used to be 9½ inches and at some stage, I think post war to early sixties, they changed this to 7½"
If you really want an organic joint you could use 'tarry marlin' as they called it. Its like a tarred rope to build the joint up then make the face of the joint up with putty or as some preferred to use 'Plumbers Mait' - Horrible stuff like heavy putty that never sets. The tarred rope is hard to get these days. I just used to pack them up with a 'rope' made out of a twisted up plastic bag, often the one that the bog seat was wrapped in and then make the joint with putty or even silicone if I could get the collar dry enough. Problem with this method nowadays is that due to height and location of the socket you have little choice of where the pan actually sits and end up having to build a plinth for it and packing it off the wall which looks naff especially if your are upgrading from a separate cistern and pan to close coupled.
Renewing the whole lead bend into the stack is another option that suits some jobs.
To actually have to connect to cast iron is a pretty rare event. Mostly there is actually a lead bend with a brass collar that you connect the pan to. This collar is usually so minging that you often think it is Cast Iron. I anticipated this in my original post and in these cases I would cut the lead flush to the wall and then use the MQ and extension. This method gets you over another problem. The standard outlet height centre used to be 9½ inches and at some stage, I think post war to early sixties, they changed this to 7½"
If you really want an organic joint you could use 'tarry marlin' as they called it. Its like a tarred rope to build the joint up then make the face of the joint up with putty or as some preferred to use 'Plumbers Mait' - Horrible stuff like heavy putty that never sets. The tarred rope is hard to get these days. I just used to pack them up with a 'rope' made out of a twisted up plastic bag, often the one that the bog seat was wrapped in and then make the joint with putty or even silicone if I could get the collar dry enough. Problem with this method nowadays is that due to height and location of the socket you have little choice of where the pan actually sits and end up having to build a plinth for it and packing it off the wall which looks naff especially if your are upgrading from a separate cistern and pan to close coupled.
Renewing the whole lead bend into the stack is another option that suits some jobs.
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Thanks, thats cleared it up for me - one other thing how do you fit a toilet to a tiled floor - if its on sand & cement how do you keep it in place while it sets and how long before it can be used?
I like to drill and fix them with brass screws. These are getting hard to get hold of these days and many toilets now require special fixings which they sell in the sheds.
A line of silicone around the base along with the fixings is the modern equivalent of sand and cement. S&C may not get a good purchase on a tiled surface that is too shiny although it was usually ok for concrete.
A line of silicone around the base along with the fixings is the modern equivalent of sand and cement. S&C may not get a good purchase on a tiled surface that is too shiny although it was usually ok for concrete.
Do you set the toilet on solid packers to stop it sinking into the mastic?
You lost me a little there, partly because its not mastic you use, its sanitary silicone.
Screw the pot to the floor but not tightly, put a few packers round the base, run silicone round it, pull out packers and then screw down tightly, Wipe silicone round neatly, wait until silicone sets before you start using it if the floor isn't very level. Job done.
Leaving just a few packers in place can lead to a point load which could crack the pot later.
Its sometimes necessary to leave some packers in if the floor is really badly out of level. I use plastic window packers but pieces of hardboard or whatever, of appropriate thickness and substance can suffice. Just trim any excess off with a wood chisel and cover with silicone.
Sorry I couldnt answer sooner but theres a lot of cold and unwashed people about right now that need my attention.
Thanks again - got local probs with connections as no B&Q near here - actualy I'm in Oz for a bit. Back home to UK in March
Once again
thanks
Once again
thanks
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