I switched our heating on for the first time this year & 2 of the radiators failed to heat up. After openeing & closing the isolator valves & trvs one of them started to work again but not the other. idrained down the faulty one & disconnected the trv & opened it over a bucket but no water came out. I then slackened the pipe to it & water began to weep out. After reading the FAQs I now suspect the trv is stuck or faulty but as I began to unscrew the body from the T I heard water start to flow into the empty rad. So I am now worried that if I remove the body water will flow from the top of the T that the body is screwed to. Could anyone advise please
![GALLERY]](http://[GALLERY=media, 26565][/GALLERY])
trv
- Thread starter jj4091
- Start date
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removing the trv top from the valve won't release any water it's only a brass pin thats more likely sticking.
I think it is better not to leave radiators turned 'off' by turning down the TRV over the summer. Leave them in their normal position so they keep moving. If you really need to turn radiators off for long periods, you can use the other valve.
Remove the top and try pushing the brass pin in. If it doesn't move, try pulling it out. Keep pushing/pulling until it moves back out by itself.
Remove the top and try pushing the brass pin in. If it doesn't move, try pulling it out. Keep pushing/pulling until it moves back out by itself.
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Don't pull the pin out! some have a retaining clip inside which you will pull off!
is that why i got to danfoss valves that only need the gland releasing and everything cleaning up, i meant in general for anyone that might be reading this post 
what ?
on some of the danfoss commercial valves there is a little clip to stop the pin coming out the valve, plus nobody warned the op that he could pull the pin out and that water will come out so be prepared to put the pin back in, sorry had a few drinks tonight so not explain myself well
i never read all about the pin only where he was told to close all the locksheilds instead of the trv.
Balancing the system is a throwback to the days before TRVs. If the radiator is 'balanced', you limit the flow when the TRV is turned up for demand heating. OK, there may be a point in limiting flow on radiators at the beginning of a long circuit, but that only needs a rough-and-ready approach - just open the valve enough so the bottom of the radiator gets hot.what then unbalance the whole system when you reopen them in the winter
If anything I would think that would prove that the valve (itself) is NOT sticking.
On the T piece, on the top of it there is a brass pin. When it is pushed down the water stops, when it rises up the water flows. If there is nothing holding it down then it should move up. Sometimes these get stuck and gan be released by manually pushing the pin down and gently pulling it up a few times, but beware that the pin only moves amybe 3-5mm anyway.
However you have said that you heard water going into the rad as you unscrewed the top section, which would say to me that as you start to remove the top (that is currently holding the pin down), the pin is starting to rise, and that when you completely remove the top the pin will likely have risen to it's full height and water will flow into the rad.
If thats the case then just inspect the top plastic bit. When you adjust the temperature setting on it the inside of it should move up / down slightly, (this is what controls when the thermostat section pushes on the pin to stop the water).
I guess it's possible that the actual thermostat section of the TRV has gone faulty and isn't releasing the valve, in which case it's easy to replace as you can just buy a new TRV and swap the heads. - Strange thing to happen though I would think.
Of course the other option is that your house was already so hot that the TRV was operating correctly and keeping the rad switched off, but if you had set it to it's max then I believe it is supposed to keep the rad on whatever the temperature.
On the T piece, on the top of it there is a brass pin. When it is pushed down the water stops, when it rises up the water flows. If there is nothing holding it down then it should move up. Sometimes these get stuck and gan be released by manually pushing the pin down and gently pulling it up a few times, but beware that the pin only moves amybe 3-5mm anyway.
However you have said that you heard water going into the rad as you unscrewed the top section, which would say to me that as you start to remove the top (that is currently holding the pin down), the pin is starting to rise, and that when you completely remove the top the pin will likely have risen to it's full height and water will flow into the rad.
If thats the case then just inspect the top plastic bit. When you adjust the temperature setting on it the inside of it should move up / down slightly, (this is what controls when the thermostat section pushes on the pin to stop the water).
I guess it's possible that the actual thermostat section of the TRV has gone faulty and isn't releasing the valve, in which case it's easy to replace as you can just buy a new TRV and swap the heads. - Strange thing to happen though I would think.
Of course the other option is that your house was already so hot that the TRV was operating correctly and keeping the rad switched off, but if you had set it to it's max then I believe it is supposed to keep the rad on whatever the temperature.
Yes thats what I thought, thanks.
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