fitting a new kitchen and when replacing cooker hood with almost identical new one noticed that it is on a fused spur from the lighting ring for downstairs which supplies five lights. Used to have problems with lights blowing maybe this is the cause. My big problem though was I was wishing to connect to this fused spur for the electric ignition of a gas hob. I have done the wiring and it is functioning. I wanted a coffee and as there is no kitchen I plugged it in to the new spur socket from the light mains and no surprise it tripped. Question will the cooker hood and hob ignition do the same I would test but do not want to unpack items. I have friends that are electricians and I am a general builder so re-wiring the councils questionable work is possible but I need this kitchen done as misses and kids have moved out for duration and xmas just round the corner.
trying to make sense of dodge wiring in council house
- Thread starter dgoswami
- Start date
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Are the council happy for you to be messing about with their wiring?
How incredibly helpful. Maybe I should have left the holes in the walls the electric sockets hanging off the rcd under the waste water from the bath etc. The council have no money for families in my area and wont fix a toilet. I do not wish my family to live this way and the council have noted all my work and have been more than happy for them to not have to sort it out. I just need to know the regulations on wiring items such as cooker hoods to the lighting circuit as the council have done. I can ask an electrician on monday not a problem, just thought some inteligent person out there would know the ins and outs, too much to ask?
You need to educate yourself a bit more to understand the circuits design limits !
Check fuse board- is the lighting on a 6a or 10a fuse ?
If 6 amp then 6 x 230v = 1380 watts load capacity.
So you stuck in a 1500w kettle and the circuit tripped- that's not surprising
Do a quick count up of all the lights on the circuit, take the example that all lights are on for a full load calc.
Say that amounts to 400w total light load, take that from the 1380w max design for the circuit gives you circa 1000w.
Now you need to decide / calc if the f/spur witha 3a fuse can support the connection you intend to run from it.
So add the extractor and ignition watt use, if this is less than the 3a x 230v or 690w then everything is ok. If it's over then you need to start thinking about a spur from the socket ring circuit.
On a side note, please make sure the f/spur fuse is a small fuse within the circuit capacity. You can't have a 13a fuse at the f/spur if the lighting circuit can only handle a max of 6a or 10a.
If the f/spur has a socket then best to remove it completely, because a socket off a light circuit spur is near to useless when anyone plugs in kitchen appliances that tend to be juice hungry- as the kettle proved to you.
Check fuse board- is the lighting on a 6a or 10a fuse ?
If 6 amp then 6 x 230v = 1380 watts load capacity.
So you stuck in a 1500w kettle and the circuit tripped- that's not surprising
Do a quick count up of all the lights on the circuit, take the example that all lights are on for a full load calc.
Say that amounts to 400w total light load, take that from the 1380w max design for the circuit gives you circa 1000w.
Now you need to decide / calc if the f/spur witha 3a fuse can support the connection you intend to run from it.
So add the extractor and ignition watt use, if this is less than the 3a x 230v or 690w then everything is ok. If it's over then you need to start thinking about a spur from the socket ring circuit.
On a side note, please make sure the f/spur fuse is a small fuse within the circuit capacity. You can't have a 13a fuse at the f/spur if the lighting circuit can only handle a max of 6a or 10a.
If the f/spur has a socket then best to remove it completely, because a socket off a light circuit spur is near to useless when anyone plugs in kitchen appliances that tend to be juice hungry- as the kettle proved to you.
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Paul_C
Neither one will draw anywhere near as much power as your electric kettle or coffee maker, so should not be a problem, subject to the lighting circuit not already being loaded to capacity (unlikely with just five lights, unless they're huge multi-lamp chandeliers!).
Personally, I wouldn't use a BS1363 (13A) socket on a 5/6A lighting circuit for the items though; I'd either hardwire via an FCU or use BS546 5A sockets.
Or put the sockets where they cannot easily be used for other appliances.
Well done Chri5 wish there were more people on here like you and not people who just like to see show many times they can trip you up with your question. No pun meant there by the way
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