Turning CH on after months of non-use

[milbo1990]

Hi all,

I'm refurbishing a house and have had my gas and water shut off at the mains for a couple of months now.

I've just finished running all my CH Pipework and want to test it before it gets covered over with flooring or plaster, so I've linked some spare pipe across all the flow/returns to complete the circuit as a temporary solution so that the system can be ran for a bit to check for leaks etc.

As I said, the water and gas have been off since at least October and the boiler has been switched off at the mains (Ideal Standard Combi). I'm planning to do the following;

-turn on boiler at mains
-turn gas/water on at mains
-open valves on boiler
-set system to operate

Is this ok, or are there any other things I should be doing?

 

[gigz]

Leave the gas off when you first turn it on, that way if your pumps sticking it won't boil the system water. Give it a couple of minutes, bleed the rads again then turn the gas on, your boiler should lock out and you will need to re-set it (see manual)

 

[milbo1990]

Leave the gas off when you first turn it on, that way if your pumps sticking it won't boil the system water. Give it a couple of minutes, bleed the rads again then turn the gas on, your boiler should lock out and you will need to re-set it (see manual)

So can I run the CH system without turning the gas on? I don't want to check the boiler, just for the system to flow at its operating pressure to check for any leaks.

 

[holty]

I've just finished running all my CH Pipework and want to test it before it gets covered over with flooring or plaster,

hire a hydraulic pressure tester. and test the pipework only. leave it to 5-10 bar capped. till all works are done. this way, at least if anyone nails the pipe or summit you will know.

 

[MeldrewsMate]

You haven't specified the model of boiler, but it will probably be a pressurised (sealed) system.
Set the pressure to 2 bar via the filling loop, then run it with the gas off as previously advised. Water leaks are much easier to detect than air leaks.
The boiler may have an internal automatic air bleed valve, so don't be surprised to hear a succession of squeeks from it (this also applies if mice have made a home in your flue fan).
Heating up the water will help to dispel dissolved air in the water, making the next stage easier, so once you have established good flow then turn on the gas and reset the boiler.
Pipe mods? Solder? Flux residue in the pipes? If you've done any soldering it's a good idea to drain down fully as soon as the water is hot to flush away those nasties. Once that's done refill, re-bleed, recirculate, and switch off. Set the pressure to 1 bar and leave overnight. If it was left to cool first there should have been zero pressure drop. A drop indicates a leak. The absence of rads (lower water content) will exacerbate any drop due to leakage.