I want to use led strip lights in a display cabinet and the power adapters are usually 3 pin plugin types. Can you use a light switch to switch the live feed to a hidden 3 pin socket so you turn the cabinet lights on from a wall switch? The room light wall switch would then be a 2g with one switch turning the room light on, the other being switched live to the socket? Is this allowed? I thought about using a 5a socket as its using the lighting circuit but then I'd have to find/use led transformer that I can wire a 5a plug to.
Turning socket on/off with wall light switch
- Thread starter foresttowndiy
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cut the plug off and wire it in to the lighting circuit/switch or fit a suitable labelled 13A socket outlet or a 2A or 5A socket and plug, or a switched fused spur from a socket circuit, take your choice
You can't (?) put a normal 3 pin socket on a lighting circuit. With the round 5A socket you could do as you want. What power is the transformer??
Have you thought about a Switched fuse spur or just a fused spur?
typo!!!
Have you thought about a Switched fuse spur or just a fused spur?
typo!!!
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Use lighting sockets:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK0771.html
Plugs here:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLPT5.html
Beware though: many cheap and nasty lights aren't rated for 5 amps.
If it is fused at 3 amps or less from the store, then you'll need to use a fused plug (use the same fuse rating as it originally had) like these:
http://cpc.farnell.com/mk-electric/641whi/5a-fused-round-pin-plug/dp/PL01928
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK0771.html
Plugs here:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLPT5.html
Beware though: many cheap and nasty lights aren't rated for 5 amps.
If it is fused at 3 amps or less from the store, then you'll need to use a fused plug (use the same fuse rating as it originally had) like these:
http://cpc.farnell.com/mk-electric/641whi/5a-fused-round-pin-plug/dp/PL01928
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Very quick replies, thanks guys.
LED strip tx units are 2A, only 2m of led strip off each tx, 2 display cabinets each side of fireplace.
I'd like to keep it off the lighting as then if anyone takes off the switch front they won't get a surprise having isolated the lighting, I want to switch the hidden socket from the light switch on the wall. I was thinking of a spur off the ring but don't like the idea of mixed supplies in one switch.
Was going to get the round pins from screwfix but seen lots of tlc links on here, any reason for the liking of tlc?
LED strip tx units are 2A, only 2m of led strip off each tx, 2 display cabinets each side of fireplace.
I'd like to keep it off the lighting as then if anyone takes off the switch front they won't get a surprise having isolated the lighting, I want to switch the hidden socket from the light switch on the wall. I was thinking of a spur off the ring but don't like the idea of mixed supplies in one switch.
Was going to get the round pins from screwfix but seen lots of tlc links on here, any reason for the liking of tlc?
nice easy links (no javascript or session IDs) and it's easy to find stuff on their site.
Sounds confusing to me, a bit of contradiction, as you are having mixed circuits within the double gang switch plate. Nothing that conveniently placed labelling, circuit charts, notices and a competent user of a voltage indicator could not deal with though!
Have you got a link to the lights you are fitting, are the transformers integral to plug or are they separate components?
1. Best option is find different transformers you can use which can be fitted to 5 amp round pin sockets, on the lighting circuit.
2. Not the best option but easy to rectify - fit 13 amp sockets etched with 'lighting only' on the lighting circuit.
3. 13 amp sockets on the socket circuit. If more than one socket needed a 13 amp fused spur will probably be needed somewhere discreet. 2.5 mm2 (probably) 'switch wire' to light switch position. Grid switch needed with 20 amp switch module for sockets. Will be two different circuits at switch, but permissible.
2. Not the best option but easy to rectify - fit 13 amp sockets etched with 'lighting only' on the lighting circuit.
3. 13 amp sockets on the socket circuit. If more than one socket needed a 13 amp fused spur will probably be needed somewhere discreet. 2.5 mm2 (probably) 'switch wire' to light switch position. Grid switch needed with 20 amp switch module for sockets. Will be two different circuits at switch, but permissible.
Sorry about that, I meant have the socket fed from the lighting circuit. Take a supply from the ceiling rose to the socket, choc block live to a wall switch brown sleeving the return to live pin of socket. Wall switch now turns socket on/off. I know its not going to be double pole switched but thats not a problem?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220524379611?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Can cut 13a plug off these and replace with 5a. Wouldn't need to be fused as tx will be double insulated.
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WRONG It will need to be fused, being double insulated will NOT prevent any device developing a short circuit fault.
2A sound smore like the current drawn (at low voltage) by the LEDs. 2A at mains voltage is nearly 500W, and with 500W of LEDs, you wouldn't be able to see the display cabinets without a welding mask
Most likely you'll draw only a fraction of an amp from the mains.I'd say your suggestion is completely sensible. You don't say much about the cabinets, but if they might get removed or moved (such as for decorating) then the socket also gives an easy way of disconnecting the lights.
Also, have you checked how your current (room) lights are wired ? One common wiring scheme would give you both a permanent live and neutral at the wall switch - so you'd only need one cable from switch to socket and nothing to the ceiling rose.
Err, if the cabling is adequate to cope with a 6A MCB, then why does it need further fusing ? We had a thread on here where all the experts were adamant that there was no problem with having 0.75 flex plugged into a continental socket wired as a radial off a 16A(?) breaker as it would still trip the breaker in case of a fault.
Also, if the transformer is the "plug in brick" type then the only option is a 13A socket - and I see no reason one can't be fitted on the lighting circuit (and labelled as such). The worst case is someone plugs in a larger load and trips the breaker - they'll soon learn not to do it again. If that overloads anything then the circuit isn't correctly designed.
I meant that being double insulated did not remove the need to have over current protection. The 6 amp MCB would protect the cable but a lower rated fuse in the circuit to the new lights would limit the harm a burning out "transformer" could cause.
( "transformer = complex electronic power supply unit )
( "transformer = complex electronic power supply unit )
Labels come off.
But they then switch the lights mcb back on and wonder why the socket blew it, so turn off the socket mcb, open socket, get a belt.
I'd say putting a standard 3 pin socket on the circuit would make the circuit incorrectly designed. If it was acceptable you'd have a single socket in each corner for your 70's standard lamp.
In this day and age I get sick of everything being dumbed down to the lowest common denominator. But putting a standard socket on a lighting circuit just doesn't gel with me.
If only
How many developers would actually think of doing anything so useful when cobbling together their ticky-tocky rabbit hutches ?
I'd not argue with thatIf only
!!!DIYnot Local
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