I fitted 11 zones in my old house, each with their own programmable stat and a central control pad. Saves no end of money not having to run the heating at full blast in the rooms you're not using.
Did you also fit closers to every door to make sure they were only open if someone was going in and out of the room? ...
Normally doors are open, but at night time, we close the bedroom doors.
I was actually directing my question at "electronicsuk", but the same thing will apply to you.
If you leave the doors open during the day, there is no point in controlling the temperature in individual rooms/areas. The heat will flow from the warmer area to the cooler until the temperatures have equalised. It just means that the rads etc which is on will have to work harder to produce enough heat to make up for the rads etc which are off.
You rang?
Indeed, there is no doubt that the efficiency of the system would be reduced by leaving doors open. However, they are generally kept closed to minimise heat loss into adjacent rooms. All stud partitions and ceiling voids in the house are insulated.
Even so, it is true that there is still a measurable increase in temperature caused by running the heating in adjacent rooms, but they certainly aren't anywhere near as warm as the rooms where the heating
is running. This would suggest that there is indeed an energy saving to be had, as the cooler rooms will have a lower temperature differential between room and outdoor temperature, hence lower heat loss through windows and walls.
Not to mention that everyone gets exactly the temperature they want in their room. I've never been happy with TRVs in providing a well-regulated room temperature.
No, I am not an installer, just a gadget freak.
It's an expensive hobby, isn't it?
But, I also enjoy my showers and it has to be pumped independently - if someone else in the house flushes the loo or washes their hands, I do not want to feel this whilst in the shower.
With correct pipework sizes and layout, this wouldn't be a problem. You don't see your water pressure reduce when your neighbours flushes their toilet, after all.
A pressure vessel, similar to the expansion vessel fitted to sealed boilers and unvented cylinders. One side contains water, which is then separated by a diaphragm with an air bubble on the other side. When water demand is low the accumulator is charged by the mains water pressure, and when demand is high such that it cannot be met by the incoming mains, water is released from the vessel.
How does the hot water return work?
The hot water system is run in a loop, returning to the HW cylinder. A bronze pump continuously circulates hot water around the loop, so that the only delay in getting HW to the taps is the small dead legs where the outlets are tee'd from the loop. As these aren't ever likely to be more than a metre in length, HW can be thought of as instant.
