Under cupboard kitchen lighting wiring

[MalH]

At the moment I have a two gang switch (both dimmers) one for 3 x 50w halogens, the other 2x50w halgogens.

The 2x50w is redundant and I'd like to use it for under cupboard 18x20w G4 LVs. These would run off two transformers, both 200VA capable for running 10x20w each.

- Firstly, is this possible/sensible?

- Secondly, if it is, what is the best way to hook up the two transofrmers (I'm assuming I will need new ones as I will be cutting into the mains before before it goes into the ceiling void.

- Thirdly, on one end the transformers have two 'inlet terminals (presumably for the mains connection) but each only has four terminals on the other end to take the lights, so I cannot see how I can wire up 10 lights? ........or would I need to use a junction box.

Any help greatly appreciated, inlcuding advice on cable sizes, correct junction box, amp fuses etc

Many thanks, Malc

 

[ban-all-sheds]

- Firstly, is this possible/sensible?

Yes/No.

360W for under cabinet lighting? Use slim fluorescent lighting that takes T4 tubes.

Secondly, if it is, what is the best way to hook up the two transofrmers (I'm assuming I will need new ones as I will be cutting into the mains before before it goes into the ceiling void.

If by that you mean you plan to connect them to the cable running down the wall to the switch then that will probably not work as you probably don't have a neutral in it. You might have, if the lighting circuit loops through the switches, but that's still fairly uncommon.

Take a look at this //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:lighting to see how lighting circuits work.

- Thirdly, on one end the transformers have two 'inlet terminals (presumably for the mains connection) but each only has four terminals on the other end to take the lights, so I cannot see how I can wire up 10 lights? ........or would I need to use a junction box.

Why can't you just run from one light to the next?

Any help greatly appreciated, inlcuding advice on cable sizes, correct junction box, amp fuses etc

• //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:mcbtocable
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.1.htm
  
  
• http://web.archive.org/web/20080213151445/http://www.kevinboone.com/cableselection_web.pdf
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Lighting/VoltageDrop.html
  

But before you do anything you should read this:

//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part-p

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[bernardgreen]

Why can't you just run from one light to the next?

The voltage drops along the daisy chain will make the last lamp look dimmer than the one nearest the "transformer" unless large cross section cable is used. The cross section is limited by the terminals in the fittings.

So starring from a junction box has advantages, maybe 5 radials of two lamps each. Even then with small cross sections there may be noticable variations in brightness.

Is it sensible ?

I think not, mini flourescents from a good quality manufacturer would be far better in terms of power saving and quality of illumination. They would also not warm up the cupboards above them.

 

[Chri5]

Have a look at LED strip lighting- this lot = 40w and it's very clear and very clean re: fit and looks. TLC was the supplier.

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• Chri5
• 23 Feb 2011
• 2

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• Chri5
• 26 Apr 2011
• 1

Sorry about the 2nd picture, it was done to prove we have too many cutlery draws, but it does give you some idea of the strength of the LED lights.