Upgrading Central Heating to S plan
- Thread starter badri
- Start date
Sponsored Links
What I am saying is that there are 2 motorised valves.
One in bubble wrap with a drain cock underneath.
One not in bubble wrap that doesn't have a drain cock underneath.
What makes you so sure that these two are the same valve?
One in bubble wrap with a drain cock underneath.
One not in bubble wrap that doesn't have a drain cock underneath.
What makes you so sure that these two are the same valve?
Sponsored Links
Then I advise you to call a competent heating engineer to explain to you why you don't have gravity hot water and what your options are for upgrading. No one is going to be able to help you here, by the looks of things.
I suggest you heed your own advice. Over and out.
Wonderful. Thanks for your time and effort.
All I can see is:
1 No Pump
1 No 2 Port motorised Valve
1 Remote thermostatic cylinder sensor coupled to a diverting (3 way) thermostatic valve http://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/TapstatCylinderControlsDatasheet.aspx
2 No Microbore manifolds
1 No 15mm Gate valve (A bypass maybe?)
Lots of confusing bubble wrap
So my impression is the system is fully pumped but the hot water has only a thermostatic control on it
I am unable to see feed or vent pipes to the system in those photo's
An S plan conversion looks on the cards by replacing the cylinder controls with a 22mm motorised valve and electric cylinder stat.
Replace existing 15mm cylinder primaries with 22mm
A suitable S plan programmer
A room thermostat if not already fitted.
A visit by a qualified electrician to replace scorched cables install a wiring centre with new cables (heat resisting where appropriate) and clip in place any cables found fit to remain.
The installation is generally untidy and to be honest I would recommend a heating engineer check it over to see what else comes to light.
1 No Pump
1 No 2 Port motorised Valve
1 Remote thermostatic cylinder sensor coupled to a diverting (3 way) thermostatic valve http://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/TapstatCylinderControlsDatasheet.aspx
2 No Microbore manifolds
1 No 15mm Gate valve (A bypass maybe?)
Lots of confusing bubble wrap
So my impression is the system is fully pumped but the hot water has only a thermostatic control on it
I am unable to see feed or vent pipes to the system in those photo's
An S plan conversion looks on the cards by replacing the cylinder controls with a 22mm motorised valve and electric cylinder stat.
Replace existing 15mm cylinder primaries with 22mm
A suitable S plan programmer
A room thermostat if not already fitted.
A visit by a qualified electrician to replace scorched cables install a wiring centre with new cables (heat resisting where appropriate) and clip in place any cables found fit to remain.
The installation is generally untidy and to be honest I would recommend a heating engineer check it over to see what else comes to light.
The OP posted then deleted a photo which clearly showed a second motorised valve wrapped in bubble wrap, with the actuator poking out of the top
Either some pipework and bubble wrap have been removed between the two photos being taken, or there are two motorised valves.
The whole thing looks a mess anyhow.
Either some pipework and bubble wrap have been removed between the two photos being taken, or there are two motorised valves.
The whole thing looks a mess anyhow.
Mogget,
I take your point but there is a pipe with what could be part of a drain cock in front of the motorised valve. Are you sure he has not simply deleted a photo taken from a confusing angle? like he took three of the pump but still only one pump there
I take your point but there is a pipe with what could be part of a drain cock in front of the motorised valve. Are you sure he has not simply deleted a photo taken from a confusing angle? like he took three of the pump but still only one pump there
Yes you got all the items in the system. Please note boiler is in utility room and pump is down in basement and Cylinder is in Upstairs airing cupboard. Just found out that property had Appollo 50/80 boiler which was replaced to Glow-worm (British Gas) 330 by BG people in 2008.
So technically it requires re-piping to achieve separate H/W and C/H control? Or can this be achieved without piping work?? Thanks
This part definitely needs redoing to remove the old controls and to fit a new motorised valve. Then the electrics need sorting out - seriously!
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
Similar threads
