upgrading my johnson and starley j54-64 warm air heater

[totallymedicine]

Thanks to everyone who gave me advice on the last posting

I have an exisiting warm air system johnson and starley j54-64 (must be over 25 years old at least)

The Fan unit has burnt out

I would like to upgrade it to something a little more efficient and powerful

I need to keep the cost down so my plan was instead of replacing the fan (because it costs a fortune to run) i would exchange it for a more modern warm air unit by J&S (second hand 3-4 years old off ebay)

I have seen a few on ebay J50 JU50 (is mine a upflow or down flow (the ducting goes upwards - so presume upwards), hi spec 50, economaire 50

Q's

1) which models of the newer ranges of J&S heaters will it be straight forward to swap over to?
2) if i get a gas safe engineer to disconnect the exisitng gas connection to the heater and electrics i plan to remove and change the heater over myself. it seems fairly straight forward. is there anything to watch out for in particular?
3)are teh newer j&s heaters much cheaper to run?
4) where can i get replacement grills /registers from?
5) is it easy to adjus teh ducting at the top and make it fit after? where can i get the parts to ensure a good fit?


You help is much appreciated

 

[45yearsagasman]

What about the flue connections? I'd leave it all to be installed by someone who is competent with warm air installs.Flueing/return air/balancing etc is not for diyers.Consider why the heaters are secondhand.Is your hot wayer incorporated in the existing JS heater?

 

[simond]

There have been no significant changes to J&S warm air apart from the fan flued system Economaire launched around 12yrs ago. This hasn't proved to be the last word in reliability.

None of the J&S heaters has been improved in efficiency significantly since yours was made, because warm air is dead in the UK. The only models being sold are for the replacement market, and that dwindles every year that passes.

The only significant upgrade you could make is to the super efficient condensing Lennox G61MPVT; but this will not meet your third requirement re cost to install, and you won't find one on ebay.

In the US, Canada and Australia (amongst other places) warm air is still the No1 choice and the market is awash with manufacturers, but in this country it has gone the way of laminate floor, and cork floor tiles. Shame because it is a very good form of heating.

 

[simond]

J&S only made a few heaters for upflow; the current sole model for this application is the JU55.

All other J&S units are downflow only, they import Dutch Brink units for other upflow applications. Brink make some interesting units but J&S only use their most basic. Probably to stop theirs looking cr*p

The return (recirculated) air will be at the top in a downflow unit.


There is a lot more to warm air than first appears; there are more CO poisoning incidents per unit installed than any other gas appliance.

The actual figure is low because the number of warm air equipped households is small, but if you extrapolate the results (like the HSE have done), they are not to be trifled with.

 

[OLLIE20]

Time for wet central heating, me thinks

 

[Agile]

The starting post seems to be a recipe for disaster!

He wants to buy a second hand unit ( removed dont know why, no way to know if its working properly ) and then install it himself without having any qualifications or even any past experience.

I only tend to seee the old models but it seems their design requirement is that the latest models are produced to make tham an easier unit to use as a replacement for the older units which have been fitted in the middle of the building.

The main safety problem seems to be that they are still, as far as I am aware, operating as an open flued appliance. That means that the installation and commissioning is much more demanding and retains a significant safety issue as flue gases can easily enter the building and circulate round it by with its own circulation system.

If they had been developed as a new build design to be located on an external wall with a room sealed combustion design then they could possibly have been more popular. In Canada and the US they are very popular.

Tony

 

[Boilerman2]

A mate of mine bought 4 Warm air heaters on E-bay last year to replace his old lennox all for were only fit for scrap in the end he went for a wet system!! Do not buy 2nd hand warm air units they are removed for one reason only - they are kn****erd

 

[macca4343]

I'm a semi-retired warm air mtce and heating engineer from Wombourne.
Not all 2nd hand units are knackered: many are simply replaced by new occupants, but I would NEVER advise an amateur on installing an open-flued appliance of that size off their own bat.

I do have a replacement fan for that unit. Buzz me if you want to discuss

 

[mickyg]

As Simon has said a new J&S wont be any more efficient, they're practically identical, just repair it, will last for years. Worst problem is if the control board or the fan reg goes cos they are now incompatible with the old parts and you have to replace both. Pricey !

 

[sherbert]

Why is this even being discussed in an open forum ... it seems pretty obvious that the guy is soing to DIY .... Yes I have my ticket for warm air and has been said about porportional amounts of poisioning, its warm air that the market leader ... I think that its a higher percentage than all the others strapped together!!

 

[macca4343]

Macca from Wombourne here again.

The model you have is the 54/64 DOWNflow heater. If you are prepared to drop to a J50, which is slightly lower output, I have one of those in very good condition also, and could do you a good deal but I would insist on fitting. I'm Gas Safe registered for Warm Air, and have replaced hundreds.

Alternatively, as I've said, I also have an almost brand new Fan Unit.
Either way, the fitted part or unit isn't likely to be as expensive as you might imagine.
If you're interested I can leave a contact for you, but I'm not trying to solicit business as I don't need a lot theses days. The unit I have is likely to be up to 10% more efficient by the way, but I never quote exact figures as requirements vary so much. Leave a post if still interested.

 

[macca4343]

Sherbert talks *******s. Nufsed

 

[macca4343]

PS, Sorry to be a pain. Someone mentioned a replacement pcb/panel. It it goes (and you don't have to have the electronic version anyway) they will be replaceable for donkeys years, and they are far less likely to fail and half the price of the average combi PCB.

Since 1968

 

[mickyg]

but I'm not trying to solicit business.

we believe you

 

[macca4343]

When you're 68 you'll know what I mean....assuming you make it