Vaulted roof/open ceiling for porch double pitched roof

[3Bowls]

Hi all,
Planning to do an open ceiling/vaulted but concerned on how it should tie in with the porch gable end and house exterior wall for example if beams should pass through the blockwork to support the trusses and avoid walls being pushed out. Have read that the heighest I can put the horizontal support on the trusses is a third up but looking at keeping the pitch from the trusses for the plasterboard to go onto, so perhaps a scissor truss.

Has anybody tried this?

Thanks

 

[noseall]

Use a stocky ridge beam and build this into the new gable and let it into the existing wall. Then fix your collars directly beneath the ridge beam so that they touch the underside of the ridge beam.

Make sure all your plumb and seat cuts are tight and twice (min) screw all joints.

Secure plate with HD straps.

 

[3Bowls]

Would purlins be required? When putting the ridge beam in I assume it doesn't just sit on the top but a block down or so butted up against and mortered in?

Cheers

 

[noseall]

Er..... how big is this porch?

 

[joe-90]

Big enough to sleep in.

 

[3Bowls]

There have been occassions when making it up the stairs after a night out seemed impossible. But the porch is 2.1m wide 1.4m deep, have read that even on this size that purlins can reduce stress on outside walls.

When attaching the ridge beam to house wall can joist hangers of sort be used/wooden supported be bolted to wall?

When assembling the roof should the ridge beam be passed through the trusses peak and collar then attached, or ridge beam in first then screw them on.

Thanks for help.

 

[noseall]

You can build with a conventional ridge i.e. with it located at the rafter plumb cut.

You don't need to attach the ridge but you can pop a couple of screws into the pair of wall side starter rafters.

Use 100mm x 50mm timber no need for purlins.

A 150mm x 50mm ridge will be ok.

Stop fretting, you could almost carry the weight of the roof in a holdall.

 

[noseall]

P.S. knock a deep enough hole out for the ridge so that the bottom is not resting on masonry.

Once the roof carcass is complete, then fit packers under the ridge board to take up the weight.

Once the roof tiles are added the ridge will settle on the masonry via the packers.

 

[3Bowls]

I know it might be a but overkill! Just want it done right, looking for a decent drawing/layout so I can tackle it.

Thanks for help.

 

[3Bowls]

Getting closer to starting, would sliding shoes be needed to attach rafters to the inside skin of wall?

So for attaching ridge beam to house rafters attached to house then ridge beam screwed to them. For ridge beam to gable end of porch have a slot for it to attach and use wooden packers to take the gap and make level.

How best to finish the ridge beam that sticks through the gable end slightly?

Thanks again

 

[noseall]

Getting closer to starting, would sliding shoes be needed to attach rafters to the inside skin of wall?

Eh?

Have you not bedded a wall plate to the top of the wall?

Glide shoes are for manufactured roof trusses with raised ties. You will nail or screw the rafters to the wall plate.

How best to finish the ridge beam that sticks through the gable end slightly?

Are you building a single skin gable end?

If so, then you may need to fix barge board up the gable as opposed to a cut brick gable to deal with the ridge board end showing through.

 

[3Bowls]

There will be a wall plate, yet to fit and a double skin gable end. Read that the shoe was suitable for vaulted type roof construction.

 

[noseall]

You need to stop reading about manufactured roof trusses and swot up on cut roofs.

 

[noseall]

yet to fit and a double skin gable end.

If it is your intention to build a double skin gable then the ridge board only need sit on the inner leaf i.e. 100mm.

 

[3Bowls]

Have had a good look at the various methods, seem to be a few! I dont expect to get a preformed truss so need to make my own.