Vectra cam belt

[iain90210]

Tried to unscrew the tensioner bolt and ended up with a torx bit with a lump of adhesive on it pinging across the floor.

I have a 1/2" drive stud extractor but am loath to use it as it is a bit heavy duty for this fairly delicate area.

Any ideas how to get this bolt out? As I say it has a shallow head. Mole grips were a non-starter.

Cheers.


Iain

p.s. looked at Autodata - never heard of it before. Considering paying for the download even at this late stage.

 

[Softus]

Stilson wrench?

You might end up using the stud extractor, but you'll need to remove the Torx bolt head first because they're no way that a brittle stud extractor will be man enough to release the bolt when it's done up tightly.

 

[jonnyfishing]

Iain

If you can, use a small chisel and cut a small groove in the edge of bolt head then tap it round to undo it. As you said it shouldn't be that tight and once you have moved it......

 

[iain90210]

Update - any home mechanic doing a cam belt change on this model might want to read this.



Unable to get my damaged bolt out with any hand tool. You were right Softus, had to bite the bullet and take the head off with an angle grinder. Sourced a new tensioner and masked off the surrounding area with duct tape 1st. Tensioner and belt off, stud came out by hand.

New one on, tightened extremely carefully looking through the wheel arch to ensure straight and level application of torx bit. Not looking down from over the engine. No problems this time.




Original belt tension problem - jayzee as you thought the problem lay in v. slight movement of the inlet camshaft when the old belt was removed. I think in TDC position this camshaft is exerting pressure on a valve, which of course pushes back. With no belt on and no locking tool there is nothing to prevent it moving as a result. It was about 1/2 tooth out. Also without a crankshaft locking tool it was difficult to prevent some degree of movement when 1st putting the belt on from the crank to the exhaust cam.

I had to contrive methods to overcome these 2 problems. jonnyfishing mentioned locking tools. I followed the procedure in Haynes which doesn't use locking tools. It led to these problems. I would not take the cam belt off this car again without locking both cam and crank shafts. This would ensure correct tension in the belt from the crank round the exhaust and inlet sprockets. The tensioner then picks up the slack on the other side.


Other thing I learnt - be careful when draining coolant from lower radiator hose. Don't soak the crank position sensor connector which is located under the oil filter.


All good now.

 

[theromantic]

hi there, i have had to do a timing kit on my vectra z18xe as part of the pully broke, i have changed everything over eg water pump, tensioner, pullys etc... but when i have gone to re-time there not meeting tdc by themself, (TOP END) the Left pully is perfect and the right one is slightly off.. am i doing something wrong can someone please help..
i have added an image

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• theromantic
• 4 Apr 2010
• 1

 

[luke20013]

can you help as i have the same problem

 

[Belle427]

looks to me as if those timing marks are in the wrong position, they usually sit facing each other horizontally. Left one should be at number 3 on a clock, right one at number 9 if that makes sense.

 

[luke20013]

i know what u mean mate but when i turn my inlet sprocket clockwise the on one the left its 1-2 teeth out of line, its frustrating because the right sprocket lines up at 9, 0 clock perfect

 

[Belle427]

invest or borrow a locking tool for the camshafts, it will save you destroying the engine!