Vokera Linea 24 boiler

[Albi56]

Hi Guys
Hope you can help. Got a Vokera Linea 24 boiler that has lost pressure and needs filling. Problem is that when I turn the valve to fill the boiler there is no water going though into the boiler.
There is water going to the valve circled in the picture attached but no further. I have tried to loosen the screw at the front of this valve but still nothing happens and I am afraid that if I loosen this screw to much then water will start to escape. My question is, if I want to change the valve shown how do I do this. Is it just a question of switching of the water at the mains and running a tap until the water stops.
Sorry for my complete lack of knowledge but I have never had to do this before
Many thanks
Albi

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• Albi56
• 3 Dec 2014
• 1

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[Phill Peck]

The part that has failed is between the circled bit and the chrome nut.

It's a non return valve and has jammed

You will need to drain the htg and water circuits to change the valve

 

[Albi56]

Hello and thanks.
Had a good laugh at your strap line......LOL.
Just one more quick question please. I have looked on Ebay for the valve and can see two types. One is a plastic valve that I presume is the inner valve that is stuck. the other type is the whole assembly (as circled in the picture). Is it easy to change the plastic valve or should I change the whole thing? Also will I need special tools (I have adjustable spanners etc)
Again thanks for you help and time.
Albi

 

[Agile]

You don't actually need to turn off the mains water in to change that part.

But they are not always the same cause of not filling.

I went to one where the inside of the circled valve was not turning enough to open the port from the filling loop.

Replacing the whole part is a nasty job that I would not wish on a DIYer! But it can be done.

But in most cases they can be opened and corrected without needing replacement.

Tony

 

[Albi56]

Hi Tony
Many thanks for the information. There is a screw on the front of the circled valve that I have stared to unscrew (to let the water through) but I am worried that if I unscrew it too much then water will start to leak out...

Is this screw to let the water through and, if so, if I take this screw out, will I be able to open up this housing to get to the actual plastic valve and, if I do, will water not start to pour out as soon as i remove (if possible) the faulty valve?

Again many thanks for your reply. Really appreciate it.

 

[Agile]

To remove or open that part the heating system water needs draining from the boiler.

Not so sure now, but I thought the screw at front only held on the square head part and not a water holding part.

I don't always remember all the detail because I remind myself when at the boiler.

Tony

 

[Albi56]

Cool, thanks for this Tony. I think I will be brave and attempt this. Anyone live near Northolt just in case.................

 

[Agile]

If you remove the screw and the silver head you are left with the brass shaft with flat sides.

On one I was working on there was a lot of slack between the silver and brass and with an adjustable spanner on the shaft it was possible to turn it further.

But I did change it for the customer so that it all worked as designed.

Tony

 

[nickso]

There's actually two possibilities here.

The non return valve could be stuck as mentioned. If so a gentle tap on the valve innards sometimes gets it going. I doubt you will get the plastic bit out if you need to replace it, best get the whole valve. drain the system before working on it as it will spew water out if it gets stuck open.

Second possibility is the ball valve (circled) is clogged up with ****e and not letting water through to the system. Vokera in their wisdom left very little clearance between the ball and the body for water to pass from the NRV to the system side....not even a millimetre if remember right. System carp can clog it easily. Any messing with the ball valve is likely to make it leak from the spindle so just get a new one.

Be warned there are at least two different versions of the ball valve and also two of the NRV, be absolutely sure you have the right ones. The direction of travel (arrow) and thread size on the NRV can be different and the thread size of the NRV port on the ballvalve can be different too.

 

[Albi56]

Brilliant Nickso. Again, I can't thank you guy's enough for all the information.

Really good to know that there are still people around that are willing to help idiots like me and not fleece them.

It is a shame that the best I can offer you is a smiley face

 

[Agile]

The hole for the water to enter inside that valve is about 3 mm. But the valve has to be turned so this hole aligns with the hole in the body.

On my problem one, the silver head bit had too much play that it did not turn it far enough unless I took the silver off.

From what I remember it is possible to push the NRV off the seat by poking it from the flexible entry point.

Tony

 

[Albi56]

Thanks again Tony

 

[DP]

Tony, if I were you, I would check and confirm what you have just posted!