Wall & pier flaring out at top

[pprnuk]

Hi, I bought a property in June. There is a problem with the left hand side, end corner, garage wall. It is a single garage, standalone, single skin, brick built 1960ish.

At the corner pier, i have seen the wall flare out at the top, since i bought it 6 months ago. The picture is a couple months old and the gap has worsened. There are no visible cracks (inside or out), it hasnt separated at the bottom (inside or out), it hasnt affected the other sides/corners of the garage. The door and frame are sound, with no wet or swelling. The roof is sound too. I have now removed the brackets from the downpipe. It just flares out at the top and appears to be getting worse.

Any ideas or answers would be gratefully received.

Untitled

• pprnuk
• 7 Dec 2012
• 1

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

Does the garage have ceiling joists some inside pics of the ceiling would help
and some outside roof pics, the rafters could be spreading the walls

 

[Deluks]

Wall rotating on a crap foundation?

 

[KenGMac]

From the photo it appears that there is a lack of "bond" between the gable and rear wall. That is the walls are acting independently of each other and because of where the door is there is no tying in of the two walls.

There is no lintel that would have bound the walls together, and as has been posted the wall is in effect "rotating" which at times can be an indication of poor foundations.

Walls at corners are "bonded" into each other by overlapping brick courses, because the door is occupying most of the vertical area between the walls then this "bond" or "tying in" of the two walls is not happening.

One rather crude fix would be to introduce a right angled steel angle iron to be fixed to the soldier course internally and firmly rawl bolted to the brick above the door. the actual right angled corner of the steel angle must fit into the internal corner of the two walls, thus the other [Side?] wall can then be rawl Bolted to the angle iron and the gap that has appeared can be cemented up. If this "crude" fix is to work the angle iron should go past the door by a fair bit to be able to get a good hold of the brick wall not just the soldier course above the door, if you use an angle only over the area of the door then a new crack will appear where the angle iron s last fixing is. on the other wall [without a door] the angle iron should be as least as long at the length above the door is.

Having read this I hope I am making some sort of sense?