Water spil on Honeywell 2 port motorised valve. Now sparks come out.

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Hi,

I had a gassafe plumber come and change my heating pump recently and after he'd finished it I noticed an electrical crackling sound which at first I thought was coming from the pump. The sound got worse and worse with some loud pops happening. After a while the plumber realised it was the 2-port valve below the pump and we could see sparks coming out of it. He said it just needed to dry out because water had spilled into it when he removed the pump. Now 2 days later its still doing it. I took the cover off and can see the sparks are right at the bottom of the unit between the outer casing and whatever is close to it on the bottom. The valve does seem to operate as normal but I am not prepared to leave the electricity to it turned on incase it starts a fire.

I would appreciate any advice on what could be wrong and what I should do about this.
 
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I think that its pretty obvious that water has entered the valve head and caused some damage.

Usual first try would be to dry with hair dryer.

Sounds as if the head will need replacing.

Tony
 
Yes as its a pretty standard thing to look out for , but hairdryer usually solves it if done straight away
 
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Micro-switch is encased in blue cardboard to insulate live cores from case, this acts as blotting paper when water spills , had the valve been installed the other way up this thread would not have existed....:)

A common occurrence unless valve is covered , I have to admit it has happened to me numerous times..valve will be fine when it dries out.
 
Micro-switch is encased in blue cardboard to insulate live cores from case, this acts as blotting paper when water spills , had the valve been installed the other way up this thread would not have existed....:)

A common occurrence unless valve is covered , I have to admit it has happened to me numerous times..valve will be fine when it dries out.

The HW valve in question is installed with the manual lever at the top (would have thought this was standard). The CH valve is what I would call 'upsidedown'. I can see how the upsidedown valve is more protected from water. I will try hairdryer. I think an experienced plumber should have covered it though. I'm really getting fed up of supposedly experienced plumbers who make basic mistakes. I can easily change a pump myself and I would have looked at the complete situation first and I thought about where the water was going to go and covered the valve. Total waste of time bringing in accredited people because they just don't give a **** and are mostly thick as pigshit or don't care. I'll probably contact this guy and just get a load of grief.
 
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Total waste of time yet you come on here to ask advice and get it from 3 total wastes of spaces thick as pigshit guys
 
The CH valve is what I would call 'upsidedown'

Why?
The arrow on valve body determines valve orientation:cautious:
Plumbing run then dictates valve installation

Ok, I just assumed that the manual lever was meant to be at the top. Maybe its meant to be on the bottom. If my valve is the wrong way up then I can be more sympathetic to the guy.
 
Total waste of time yet you come on here to ask advice and get it from 3 total wastes of spaces thick as pigshit guys

If you identify yourself as the type of bad plumber I have had lots of experience with then just don't reply. I am asking for advice from the broad range of people who post on an internet forum. Some of them may be plumbers and some DIYers. I suspect that some of plumbers who post and give good advice in here are in the top 1% of their trade and are interested and engaged and constantly learning and not the type of plumber I've had experience of.

I'm trying to work out whether to get this guy to fix it FOC or to split the cost with him.
 
I am content with the 1%.

However, if the valve has been arcing for very long then even a hairdryer may not fix it.

Thats why everything should be very carefully inspected when first repowering.

A bin liner is an easy way to fairly well protect a valve head.

But being rather more careful myself, I would usually just remove the head while changing the pump or pump head.

Tony
 

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