what should i pay

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looking to replace my boiler.
its a glowworm fuel saver 3 , and will be changing 4 rads, (1 double and 3 singles) and adding a column 1 in kitchen .
will the ce pipes that are 8mm need replacing?
the water tank is in loft and services the bathroom aswell as cylinder, do the fitters reroute pipes ?

also I've a crawl space under floor , would flooring need pulled up ( laminate,tile and carpet) for pipping if I needed it to be replaced?

amd what kind of price should I be paying , its 2 bed , 1 shower, boiler would be in same place

looking to get this done
 
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the big 5 companies are rip offs , last quote from them without radiators ( they recommend getting pipes blasted from them) was £4200 , got one from local fitter , he was £2500 for same , and glasgow boiler company is £3800 .

all prices are without rads ( I would do these myself)

so is that to much, just right or what?
 
If all they're doing is a boiler swap (so you're putting a heat only boiler in) then £2500 is a bit rich. 8mm tube is prone to blocking- if you want to replace it all with 15mm then get your plumber to price that as well. If the crawl space is deep enough to get into it from one room then you/plumber could thread placcie 15mm pipe through easily enough or even soldered copper if there's the headroom to work under there properly. If you do go placcie under the floor i'd suggest keeping any couplers where you can get at them. And remember to insulate pipes in the subfloor as well.
 
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the big 5 companies are rip offs , last quote from them without radiators ( they recommend getting pipes blasted from them) was £4200 , got one from local fitter , he was £2500 for same , and glasgow boiler company is £3800 .

all prices are without rads ( I would do these myself)

so is that to much, just right or what?
Surprised nobody's tried to get you to change to a combi. If they do, tell them where to go.
 
why not a combi ?, my ordinary boiler takes 2.5 hrs to heat , and my central heating takes 1hr for 1 degree of heat . there's no water on demand .
 
why not a combi ?, my ordinary boiler takes 2.5 hrs to heat , and my central heating takes 1hr for 1 degree of heat . there's no water on demand .
If you've got a system with heat-only or system boiler, with HW cylinder, no point in changing to a combi. Not quite sure what you mean by those times, but if too long you could always choose a higher output for your new boiler. There is HW on demand from your cylinder. If there's a boiler problem you can switch on the immersion heater and at least you have HW while it's fixed. With a combi you've lost the lot. A friend of mine runs a gas company and gets most of his work from combi call-outs. He'd never have one in his own home.
 
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boiler is from 1984, and had a few problems , but got solved . (gas valve ,pcb board and fan).
what I mean about timings is .
for water hot enough to shower, it has to be on for 2 hrs , for water to wash dishes then 2.5 hrs (both from cold) .

and the temperature in house goes up 2 degree a hr , boiler cycles on and off every minute.

if I gor another system boiler then it's still having to heat up for hrs to keep water warm .

unless there's some new technology to do this (sealed system?)
 
If it keeps cycling, are you sure you don’t have a blockage somewhere?
 
you would be better finding out why its cycling, you might fit a new boiler and it just does the same if system related
 
my ordinary boiler takes 2.5 hrs to heat , and my central heating takes 1hr for 1 degree of heat .

Something definitely amiss there. Your cylinder should take 20 to 30 minutes, and CH maybe an hour or so, to comfortable. Maybe there is a flow problem due to choked pipes?
 
Our old oil boiler started cycling and it turns out the heat exchanger plates were practically thick with limescale. Also rads had thick sludge in them so LL decided cheaper in the long run to fit a new boiler c/w power flush of system.
Everything working fine now.
 
is that from cold ? I don't use the system when I'm staying away from home, everything is switched off. but when u fire lt up , it takes time , you can hear tge pump going for 1 min then it will stop for a min,
I did read on this forum u think , they usually do this when the hot water isn't clearing away quick .

rads are from 1984 .when bleeding the water Is clear .
 
but when u fire lt up , it takes time , you can hear tge pump going for 1 min then it will stop for a min,

Something is not right there, the pump should run continuously, whilst ever there is demand and the demand has been satisfied.
 

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