What's wrong with my Vaillant Ecotec Plus boiler?
- Thread starter MaryJane7
- Start date
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No it was a typo as i feel she may be able to reduce the CH power further particularely in the light of the recent information that she has TRVS turning and I have edited my previous posting to correct it.
I have also added the suggestion that the pump over run should be increased to 8 min.
The OP should try my suggestion of adjusting the bypass to see if that reduces the incidence of d53 on a restart on heating.
There has been no or little mention of hot water!
Tony
I have also added the suggestion that the pump over run should be increased to 8 min.
The OP should try my suggestion of adjusting the bypass to see if that reduces the incidence of d53 on a restart on heating.
There has been no or little mention of hot water!
Tony
I am really quite concerned as I am having one of these boilers installed next week.
Can I ask, does this problem with the S.53 code only tend to happen when the central heating only is on?
Is it ok when both heating and hot water are on together, and does it still happen, say for example when hot water is still "on" but up to temperature because of the cylinder thermostat?
I am certainly going to ensure my installer ranges it properly!!!
Can I ask, does this problem with the S.53 code only tend to happen when the central heating only is on?
Is it ok when both heating and hot water are on together, and does it still happen, say for example when hot water is still "on" but up to temperature because of the cylinder thermostat?
I am certainly going to ensure my installer ranges it properly!!!
I am sure that Dave will agree that a competent installer will encounter these problems occasionally but will know how to deal with it by adjusting the settings to suit the installation.
They only occasionally occur if the installer sets the parameters correctly in the first place.
They often happen if the installer does not bother or does not how to do it.
If you have any concerns you could try casually asking what power he is going to range rate it for. If he stares blankly then avoid!
If he installs many he will remember that the power setting in under code "d0".
Tony
They only occasionally occur if the installer sets the parameters correctly in the first place.
They often happen if the installer does not bother or does not how to do it.
If you have any concerns you could try casually asking what power he is going to range rate it for. If he stares blankly then avoid!
If he installs many he will remember that the power setting in under code "d0".
Tony
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Thanks for persevering with me Dave and Tony.
Out of interest, since my last posting I waited until everything had gone cold again and then started up with d0=8. The boiler gently got to 68C in 28 minutes, so that was excellent. But then I again got the 10 minute S.53 delay when the boiler tried to start from warm.
Reading carefully through your postings I've now set d0=8 and d1=10. I'll wait for everything to go cold again and then see what happens on those settings.
Tony, the reason I've not said much about hot water is because the S.53 problem does not occur on cold start up when the hot water is turned on immediately prior to the central heating being turned on. Also the S.53
problem does not occur when only the hot water is turned on.
Also I don't think I've got a bypass screw. Is this another term for an 'automatic bypass (pressure balancing) valve'? If so, some weeks ago my installer did say that it might help my S.53 problem if he installed one of these valves. But then he didn't follow that idea up and referred me back to Valliant instead. Should I ask for one of these bypass valves to be installed? Would be really, really grateful for some advise about this new variable ..... !
Many thanks, Mary Jane
Out of interest, since my last posting I waited until everything had gone cold again and then started up with d0=8. The boiler gently got to 68C in 28 minutes, so that was excellent. But then I again got the 10 minute S.53 delay when the boiler tried to start from warm.
Reading carefully through your postings I've now set d0=8 and d1=10. I'll wait for everything to go cold again and then see what happens on those settings.
Tony, the reason I've not said much about hot water is because the S.53 problem does not occur on cold start up when the hot water is turned on immediately prior to the central heating being turned on. Also the S.53
problem does not occur when only the hot water is turned on.
Also I don't think I've got a bypass screw. Is this another term for an 'automatic bypass (pressure balancing) valve'? If so, some weeks ago my installer did say that it might help my S.53 problem if he installed one of these valves. But then he didn't follow that idea up and referred me back to Valliant instead. Should I ask for one of these bypass valves to be installed? Would be really, really grateful for some advise about this new variable ..... !
Many thanks, Mary Jane
No the pro was just as bad. The 400 series is exactly the same as the Pro except it has the new pcb with the new diagnostics.
The pro would keep locking out with the fault code to say check the pump was working
If you have 2 x 2 port valves then you must have an auto bypass fitted.
If you have a 3 port valve then one is not needed as long as one of your rads doesn't have a trv fitted.
It certainly appears to be a circulation problem with the heating side from what you are saying.
When 'S53' is displaying, go to d40 and d41 and tell us what they are reading.
One other thing, is your heating system a standard small bore set up, 15mm & 22mm pipes, or is it microbore ie 10mm?
If you have a 3 port valve then one is not needed as long as one of your rads doesn't have a trv fitted.
It certainly appears to be a circulation problem with the heating side from what you are saying.
When 'S53' is displaying, go to d40 and d41 and tell us what they are reading.
One other thing, is your heating system a standard small bore set up, 15mm & 22mm pipes, or is it microbore ie 10mm?
Sorry Dave but now I'm stuck. How do I know if I have a 2 x 2 port valve or a 3 port valve? I'm afraid that I don't know what they are or where to look for them.
I do know that my living room rad (where the room thermostat is located) doesn't have a trv fitted
I'll report back on the d40 and d41 readings as soon as I can tomorrow.
The heating system has standard small bore set up with 15mm & 22mm pipes.
Thanks, Mary Jane
I do know that my living room rad (where the room thermostat is located) doesn't have a trv fitted
I'll report back on the d40 and d41 readings as soon as I can tomorrow.
The heating system has standard small bore set up with 15mm & 22mm pipes.
Thanks, Mary Jane
If a bog standard set up, the zone valve(s) are usually found in the airing cupboard next to the HW cylinder.
If you have one 'box' with 3 22mm pipes connected, then it is a mid-position 3 way valve, if there are 2 'boxes' then you have 2 x 2 port valves and a bypass should have been fitted.
If you have one 'box' with 3 22mm pipes connected, then it is a mid-position 3 way valve, if there are 2 'boxes' then you have 2 x 2 port valves and a bypass should have been fitted.
Thanks for the swift response Dave!
In the airing cupboard I've found (a) the pump and (b) a box which has written on it Honeywell 'power head for motor valve' and (c) a Honeywell thermostat which I believe controls the powerhead.
I don't think that these are what you are asking me about but I can't find any more boxes in the airing cupboard. Where else could I look?
In the airing cupboard I've found (a) the pump and (b) a box which has written on it Honeywell 'power head for motor valve' and (c) a Honeywell thermostat which I believe controls the powerhead.
I don't think that these are what you are asking me about but I can't find any more boxes in the airing cupboard. Where else could I look?
Have been thinking, Dave, and have realised that my house isn't 'zoned'. Does this help?
Sorry Dave our postings crossed.
Have had another look at the box which has written on it Honeywell 'power head for motor valve'. It is a silver metal box but doesn't have 3 22mm pipes connected to it. I think its to control the hot water going in to the hot water tank.
Some time ago when d0 was still 18, I did try the heating from cold with all the trv's set to fully open but got the S.53 problem for 20 minutes before the heating got started.
Any help?
Have had another look at the box which has written on it Honeywell 'power head for motor valve'. It is a silver metal box but doesn't have 3 22mm pipes connected to it. I think its to control the hot water going in to the hot water tank.
Some time ago when d0 was still 18, I did try the heating from cold with all the trv's set to fully open but got the S.53 problem for 20 minutes before the heating got started.
Any help?
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