Which connector?

[DaveJ123]

Hi,

I want to replace my kitchen bib taps with a mixer unit. The bibs screw into some kind of connector in the wall that I can't see. What is the name of the connector that I need (preferably an elbow) to connect to whatever's in the wall, and thereby extend the pipe work? ...Male elbow connector, or something?? Can't see anything in Screwfix catalogue.

Dave

 

[david and julie]

Do you mean MI elbow screwfix part number D14890-74, 1/2 TO 15MM.

Whilst you are in screw fix catalogue(vol 74) look on page 234 for flexible tap connecters, you should now take the opportunity to fit service valves.

Good Luck, Dave

 

[DaveJ123]

I don't know, Dave, do I? lol. It looked a possibility, but I didn't know what MI meant (male something?) If that will fit where a tap goes, then that's it..thanks.

Will do the flex connectors and valves too. Thanks for going to the trouble to look it up!

Cheers

Dave

 

[david and julie]

Davej..... Male/Iron unfortunately your description isn't the best, if you are saying that the taps screw into the wall above the sink it may be more work than you think! Kitchen taps are normally 1/2" BSP but your mixers may not be.

 

[DaveJ123]

Yes, it it screws into the wall. I thought that once I'd found a male connector that fits into there, I'd just be a case of extending from the elbow with some copper pipe to a service valve - maybe needing a reducer somewhere - and then to the taps via the 'flexibles'. What extra work have you in mind for me?

Dave

 

[david and julie]

Daveyj123..... You have the advantage as I can't see the job.

The supply to the mixers would usually be underneath the sink unit. The mixer itself would fasten to the sink unit. Has your sink got hole/holes in it for taps? Some have one hole some two, Either way I don't want to put you off as you sound quite confident.

If you order the bits you also need a roll of PTFE tape for the threads.

The hole in the wall will be 1/2"BSP.

Good Luck, Dave

 

[DaveJ123]

The sink has one hole. Everything's on order from Wickes, so I don't know exactly what I've got yet.

Yep, I did realize that I'm going to have to get these pipes under the worktop somehow - I thought I'd route them away from the sink to avoid making the hole in worktop close to where water gets splashed most. I sound confident? Ha! Talk's cheap.

The PTFE's already on my list, thanks.

I'm assuming that you think that that elbow connector should fit the wall, and that I'll be able to connect a copper pipe to it? No need to reply if that's right...

Thanks

DaveJ

 

[AdamW]

When screwing the new taps into the 1/2" connectors, should a washer be used, pushed into the female side of the join before the male side is screwed in?

How tight should the male side be screwed in? By hand, or with a 12" spanner?

Not that I have a vested interest in this because my shower mixer has the same connections or anything

 

[david and julie]

Adam... yes there will be a fibre washer,if you look at the fitting in the screwfix catalogue it has a flange at the end of the thread. The washer lies between this flange and the one in the wall. It needs to be hand tight then turned to where you want it to point.

To be honest it is probably quicker and better in the long run to chisel out the plaster, remove the old tap connectors. and alter the pipework to the correct place, otherwise you will have to hide them somehow. But Daveyj asked what fitting he needed, I presume he has something in mind.

 

[DaveJ123]

Dave,

The elbow connector is to connect to an old iron (I assume) pipe that's in the wall (the hot pipe is copper, and on the outside). I wanted to minimize the disruption and chance of complications for my 80 yr-old mother, so my cunning(?) plan is to build as much of the new the pipework that will get from where the female connection in the wall is to the new taps first, then whip out the old tap and, hopefully, just screw the new pipework -via its appropriate elbow on the end- into the original female socket. Pipes are visible everywhere in the house anyway, so I'm less concerned about appearance and hiding this "charming original feature"..ahem!

However, if I do have to 'do battle' with the iron pipe, are there specific compression fittings and techniques for joining to iron pipes? ...I've a feeling this is where the 'more work than I think' bit might come in.

DaveJ

 

[david and julie]

Daveyj

There are no compression fittings to convert steel to copper. You would usually cut a thread onto the pipe then use a fitting (D 12341-74) FI coupler to convert to copper. If you could see all the pipe you could go back to a joint and do this, but you can't!

To be honest I don't think you will have any problems undoing the tap. Work it back and to and don't force anything, you will just have to go for it! Sorry if that hits your confidence, but thats the way it is.

Let us know how you go on.

Good Luck. Dave

 

[david and julie]

Daveyj

Is there a reason why you think you have iron pipes instead of the usual copper/lead?

 

[DaveJ123]

Sorry Dave, only just seen your question...

Well, Now you ask...I don't know! The house was built before WW2, and, apparently, the original pipe work was lead. It was replaced with copper, but this kitchen cold pipe in the wall could be original because the hot is on the outside of the wall and is copper. Will get up into loft tomorrow and see what I can see.

DaveJ

 

[david and julie]

Daveyj......The house might not off had hot water when it was built, it makes no difference to you really. If you are curious have a look at the stop tap. Also make sure it turns OK.

From what say the house has probably got copper pipes, if you look at fitting number D17416-74, I would think you have one off these screwed to the wall and plastered over.

None of this makes much difference to what you have in mind.

Do not jerk the taps to undo them, just a steady firm pressure, it sometimes helps if you pour some hot water on the fittings.

 

[DaveJ123]

For reference purposes....

Ventured into loft (bungalow btw,) and you were right Dave - the mystery cold pipe is copper..yippee! Sorry about that; what had me thinking about iron, or steel, is that some of the old pipe work is still visible in the top corner of the kitchen where there's a brown rusty open end of an elbow which went from a stove to the original hot pipe still in the wall - the blocked off end is visible next to the hot tap. I assumed wrongly, that 'in wall' = original.

Anyway, thanks for the help, and the tips for loosening the taps.

DaveJ