Which foundations ?

Have only just started posting on this forum, and whilst we appreciate you are not under planning or BRs the only guidance we are prepared to give will always comply with planning and Brs.
Noseall has given you some good guidance, we will just tell you the way we do it..
Providing no trees or hedgerows near to proposed building, excavate over site minimum depth required to remove vegetable matter, excavate for founds 1.0m deep, bottom up and peg out for 750mm deep concrete. Leaves you 6 course brickwork to DPC. Wet concrete to place, say 7m3.
You were whittling on about concrete, so lets stick with that for minute , but first have you realised you have got approx 14M3 bulked spoil to cart out to skip or grab lorry, unless you have sufficient space in your garden to spread and level. Skips required 2no 6m3 and 1no 4m3 or one 8 legger grab lorry. with 14m3 capacity.
Back to concrete, Best route to go for this depends on how far the push is and what sort of access you have. Ready mix drum mixers do not have barrow service. Some volumetric ready mix do have what they call barrow service, but they only have 3 barrows on board for you to have free use of. . They do not supply the little men in funny hats to push them. However Mixamate do have an on board mini dumper service which the driver drives. Third of a metre capacity, width 800mm, do not know price as never used it.
We never use ready mix, unless on house founds or big slab pours where we can pull wagon up alongside. For the few buckets of concrete that you want, for cost purposes and practical reasons we would batch on site. How we do it the easy way for the two above reasons is another story.
Brick footings, 3 course commons, 3 course of face or what ever ground level dictates.
Oversite. 100mm min MOT type 1, level, sand blind and wack. Polythene DPC laid over and turned up over brickwork. 100mm concrete. If you want to know the best ways to get a finish on concrete with out the use of fancy bull nosed floats etc, then come back.
Brickwork. Facts. With due respect to any previous post, forget what you have been told, throw away that chart for blockwork, it does not apply in your position. Half brick walls with piers, max 3 metre high. Piers every 3 metre max between buttresses. In your case 2 no, one third, two thirds. Suggest move window into flank wall so that light runs full length of building. Other long wall throw one pier up on slamming side of door.. Piers will be one brick thick and project in to garage by half brick, tied in with queen closure and two three. quarters. No need for you to concern your self with this.
If you are throwing in a drain and electrics then legally you will come under BRs. If you are doing these remember a duct for water service and electric through founds, and if drain going into building, last thing when founds are laid take 100mm deep x300mm wide pocket out of concrete founds where drain will come out.
Lastly, if you go down the route of timber building, in present position will not be acceptable to BRs
Conclusion, any so called builder who tells you that a slab with out a DPM and ordinary breeze block walls will suffice needs locking up. Do me a favour give your money to charity, instead of throwing it down the drain.
old un. Hope helps. Guidance only.
 
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Have only just started posting on this forum, and whilst we appreciate you are not under planning or BRs the only guidance we are prepared to give will always comply with planning and Brs.
Noseall has given you some good guidance, we will just tell you the way we do it..
Providing no trees or hedgerows near to proposed building, excavate over site minimum depth required to remove vegetable matter, excavate for founds 1.0m deep, bottom up and peg out for 750mm deep concrete. Leaves you 6 course brickwork to DPC. Wet concrete to place, say 7m3.
You were whittling on about concrete, so lets stick with that for minute , but first have you realised you have got approx 14M3 bulked spoil to cart out to skip or grab lorry, unless you have sufficient space in your garden to spread and level. Skips required 2no 6m3 and 1no 4m3 or one 8 legger grab lorry. with 14m3 capacity.
Back to concrete, Best route to go for this depends on how far the push is and what sort of access you have. Ready mix drum mixers do not have barrow service. Some volumetric ready mix do have what they call barrow service, but they only have 3 barrows on board for you to have free use of. . They do not supply the little men in funny hats to push them. However Mixamate do have an on board mini dumper service which the driver drives. Third of a metre capacity, width 800mm, do not know price as never used it.
We never use ready mix, unless on house founds or big slab pours where we can pull wagon up alongside. For the few buckets of concrete that you want, for cost purposes and practical reasons we would batch on site. How we do it the easy way for the two above reasons is another story.
Brick footings, 3 course commons, 3 course of face or what ever ground level dictates.
Oversite. 100mm min MOT type 1, level, sand blind and wack. Polythene DPC laid over and turned up over brickwork. 100mm concrete. If you want to know the best ways to get a finish on concrete with out the use of fancy bull nosed floats etc, then come back.
Brickwork. Facts. With due respect to any previous post, forget what you have been told, throw away that chart for blockwork, it does not apply in your position. Half brick walls with piers, max 3 metre high. Piers every 3 metre max between buttresses. In your case 2 no, one third, two thirds. Suggest move window into flank wall so that light runs full length of building. Other long wall throw one pier up on slamming side of door.. Piers will be one brick thick and project in to garage by half brick, tied in with queen closure and two three. quarters. No need for you to concern your self with this.
If you are throwing in a drain and electrics then legally you will come under BRs. If you are doing these remember a duct for water service and electric through founds, and if drain going into building, last thing when founds are laid take 100mm deep x300mm wide pocket out of concrete founds where drain will come out.
Lastly, if you go down the route of timber building, in present position will not be acceptable to BRs
Conclusion, any so called builder who tells you that a slab with out a DPM and ordinary breeze block walls will suffice needs locking up. Do me a favour give your money to charity, instead of throwing it down the drain.
old un. Hope helps. Guidance only.
 
Don't know which other forum from which you crawled out under but some excellent advice there for the OP.
Wilkommen!
 
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Thanks very much for your detailed guidance oldun, very helpful. :D

The reason I’m asking all these questions is, I want enough sound information so when I get a professional builder/bricklayer in and they propose a solution I’ll know if it sounds reasonable and safe. With not knowing anyone and using the yellow pages could be hit and miss. Someone might say bricks on the grass is ok or you need a slab 2 metres deep! :eek:

Also as a DIY’er and (using this brilliant forum) I want to be involved with some aspects and also to keep the cost down. I have more time on my hands, so can hopefully get it correct. :)

I was hoping to do the foundations, floor/drain and roof myself with some friends. Then get a good builder/bricky to build the structure professionally. The drain goes to a soakway and electrics will be done by Part P electrician. I already have good quality upvc doors and window from an auction site. ;)

I’ll stick with foundations/structure here, but will start threads for roof and floor/drain and link them to this, as I’m sure it will be useful to others wanting to do a similar thing.

Back to the topic:---
It’s not a garage; it will be used as workshop/hobbie room, so no heavy items like a car.
Also might build a studded wall (later) across width before window.
I can store the soil for now and dispose with my trailer over the coming months/years!

What is the width (W) of the footings :?:
If it was 500mm I would need: (L = 22m x D = 0.75m x W = 0.5m) = 8.25 cu-m of concrete :!:

Can’t use vehicle access due to 900mm width gate. Is anyone (barrowmix etc) going to barrow this amount :?:

Are the above amounts correct for a halfbrick 2.1m high structure with a roof made of light weight sheets :?:

Is the footing across the 2m wide door needed :?: There is no weight on it and it would save 0.75cu-m of concrete.

For curiosity only: What foundation sizes (22m x D x W) would be needed if it was a cavity brick version or double storey structure :?: or a house :?:

The services (110mm drain out, SWA cable in, water in) are on the 2.6m side. I assume one cannot simply encapsulate them by pouring concrete around them in the footing, not sure how I balance a 100mm x 300mm hole for them :?:

When this project gets going :!: I’ll be sure to post photos in this thread.

Here is my revised diagram, any comments :?:




plan-3.gif
 
Noseall. With all due respect, that is a bit of a sweeping statement mate. We all have our opinion, try our one.
Take average street in town, terraced houses down each side. alleyway between every two houses parked cars each side of road most of day. Just enough room left for two cars to pass one another in the middle of road. Car going up and down say every 2 minutes.
You, time your pump to come in to give him long enough to set up, run out his hose, prime his hose, then hopefully your ready mix should turn.
Lorry mounted line pump possibly 2.5m wide excluding mirrors, has already blocked road for possibly 30 minutes.
You want 7m3 so you go for volumetric. other wise you have got 2 drops in a drum mixer and your pump stood out in road waiting for next load possible one hour wait, pump on the clock all this time.
Volumetric 8 legger 10 metre long 2.6 wide excluding mirrors, back up, set up, mix and discharge 7 m3, can’t wash up on road, additional charge incurred, drive away, time taken 30 minutes. Road completely blocked for this time.
Pump, un couple hose and load up, can’t wash up on road, additional charge incurred, drive away. Pump could be there for total 2 hours part blocking road. Old Bill has come round to read you the riot act and threatening to nick yer.
Pump hire any where between £170.00 and £350.00.
Will agree if we have a pour that merits a pump, then we are first in the queue, even if it means we have to apply for a temporary traffic restriction order, how ever for the odd half dozen metres, we find it more practical and cost effective not to even consider pumps and ready mix. We also score, we have some great grafters. Give em a pick and shovel, point out what way north is and tell em you will meet em in Birmingham on Friday with their wages. Each to their own way Nose. Bet you have a sit on lawn mower.
You are right on 300mm wide found, done quick calc and weight is just over 15KNmetre run so will scratch in to 300mm wide trench. Only thing with 300mm wide trench at 1 metre deep is that even our smallest lad can not get his shoulders down it to bottom up.
old un.
 
Volumetric 8 legger 10 metre long 2.6 wide excluding mirrors, back up............................. Only thing with 300mm wide trench at 1 metre deep is that even our smallest lad can not get his shoulders down it to bottom up.
old un.

The in-line pumps we use now (imported from Australia and not bulky boom pumps) but very small Japanese fellas thet will fit on any drive. O'Neills of Wolverhampton. ;)

As for shoulders in a trench :?: You never hear of a mini digger Old un?
 
brewhut, Will try and pick the bones out of questions and answer them As previously stated I will only give answers that comply with BRs and any thing I now suggest is for advice only and your decision whether you carry it out, but believe me I would not say it if it would not be okay.
Repeat, suggest change window to flank wall to light length of building.
Now read carefully, because I am not going to repeat it again.
Reduce width of excavation to 300mm.
Reduce depth of foundation to 750, below existing ground level.
Reduce depth of concrete to 600mm.
Leave foundation out under doorway. Throw shutter board across brick footings at this point and bed door frame onto oversite concrete.
Reduce oversite fill to 75mm, but wack well..
Concrete needed for foundations, say 3.5m3. Work it out yourself.
For your curiosity a normal foundation depth for a detached house is 1m deep, 450to600mm wide depending on loading of house, with 750mm thick concrete. If working near high water demand trees foundation depth could be up to 2.4m deep.
Now you are whittling on again about barrows, read my last post, as I told you all you need to know. If you have made up your mind to use ready mix, then google mixomate, put your post code in and they will tell you your nearest depot. If they have one ask about mini dumper hire and the price. Mini dumper carries 1/3rd metre, about 5/6 barrow loads.
If no luck there, then read nosealls last post about pumps, (where he is trying to convert me to go to Toys R Us every week to buy a new Tonka Toy), and {Quote noseall} hire one of those small Japanese fellas that will sh*t on your drive. Rather like that one Brewhut.
Joking aside if no luck with mini dumper, phone around your local hire shops for one or a small in line pump, or even a Max Truck, Blue one not orange. Blue ones are a bit bigger.
Just had a quick flash round the wet city, try Precision Poured Concrete. They have Volumetric mixers and a small in line pimp, sorry, should read pump. mounted on small lorry.
Brew Lad, Going to have me dinner. Finish rest of questions to-morrow or Monday. Won’t let you down fellow.
old un.

 
Brewhut. Services. Drainage, you say is going to soakaway, assume this must be storm water. any other drainage you require put outside.
Water. Make up hockey stick. 3m of 110mm PVC pipe, Cut bit, say 1.2m long, 90 degree double socket bend on bottom, dig slot down inside wall of trench where you want connection, 100mm wide by 100mm deep. Stand pipe up in slot measure length required to go across bottom of trench plus 100mm. Fit into bend.
Tunnel out on bottom outside wall of trench 100mm so that you can push hockey stick into this pocket, and it stands up in the slot the other side. Before you put it in, drop pull cord down pipe, tie of top and bot. stuff bit old cement bag in pipe top and bottom, pack bit clay round pipe in bottom of trench.
Do the same with the electric, but in 40mm waste pipe, or buy a pre made electric hockey stick.
We dig water in at 750mm deep, electric 500/600 deep, with warning tape across electrics.
You will be a little lean on piers door side. You will be okay, but if I was doing it for myself, would throw another pier up against window.
Excavation, by all means if you do not want a bit of hard collar, go down the mini digger route, if you do you will need a micro digger, as they are only 750/800 wide, whereas a mini is 1.0m upwards. The reason I never suggest this route is I have seen the mess that people who have never driven one before have caused. If you decide to go this way, and you have the money to spare, then go the whole hog and hire a Max Truck and Max truck skip loader ramp and cart it away to tip.
Comments. Yea, Wish, oh how I wish, I could post little pictures like you. I can turn the damn thing on and of and that is the extent of my knowledge on computers.
Roof, suggest 47x125 thrown across short span, 400mm centres, 50 to 10mm firings, 18mm OSB board UVPC facia and GRB fibreglass roof with raised edge and drip trim. Think I have answered all your questions. Best of luck
old un.
 
Many thanks to all who have contributed :cool:

Oldun, you are obviously very knowledgeable in your field, many many thanks for you contribution and answering all my crazy questions :D I feel a lot more confident when I get people in now and about having a go myself. I personally think you should write a book and if you need to produce diagrams for it use Visio, that’s what I’ve been using, it’s very easy to use :cool:

I’ve been reading about piers today, sad I know, and these ½ bat and ¾ bats, queen closer etc..so I’ll know what the bricky is going on about etc..

More whittling I’m afraid with yet another diagram :rolleyes:


plan-4.gif



I assume with the sizes we have at the moment the pier will overhang the footing width (W) (see diagram), therefore should they be made wider where the piers are :?:
Also made longer over a certain length (L) to make sure the pier can be built ok in the correct place. I don’t know say (W) 500mm x (L) 500mm pad :?:

My DIY book says fill the trenches with water and allow to drain before pouring footings as it will stop concrete drying too fast :!:

I assume when it comes to wacking the floor area with the machine, this will not harm the trench footings integrity or the first brick courses :?:

Thanks again, this forum is great :D

best regards

Brewhut
 
I assume with the sizes we have at the moment the pier will overhang the footing width (W) (see diagram), therefore should they be made wider where the piers are :?:
Also made longer over a certain length (L) to make sure the pier can be built ok in the correct place. I don’t know say (W) 500mm x (L) 500mm pad :?:
Bingo..
 
Hi everyone :D

Had a builder round and explained my plans/ideas based on info gained from this thread.

I was going to have 6 piers, 4 on the window/door side. The area on the window/door side is about 10sqm, so about 600 bricks at 1/2 brick. The piers take 2.1m x 14 = 30 bricks each, i.e 120 bricks for 4 of them.

It would only take 600-120 = 480 more bricks to build the window/door side in 1 brick.

Does this sound like a good idea :?:

The footings at the moment are 300mm wide and 600mm deep for the other 3 sides in 1/2 brick (widened at piers to 500mm).

If the answer to the first quest is yes, is it a case of just widening the footings for the 1 brick side to say 500mm :?:

or is there more to it ?

Thanks again, love this place :cool:
 

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