Which Junction Boxes should I use?

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WMPS12 ... doesn't seem to be listed by TLC ... nor any of the chains near my little town
A Google Search for WPMS12 gets over 3,500 hits. Just on the first page, there are several people selling them, the first being Discount-Electrical, who are selling them for 72p+VAT each.

Kind Regards, John
 
Don't think so, Hager say...

"Unique patented loop terminal allows neutral looping at the switch."

Schneider say(only about the Lisse range AFAIK)...

"Neutral Loop terminal on 10AX plate switches provides flexibility and future-proofed installations."

I think Hager need to drop the "unique" from their description!

Patented... wow! :D
 
I think switch loopin is a common approach these days, in particular when "fancy" or downlights are used, as there is no room to loop in at the ceiling.
 
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your google is certainly better than mine, then.

even if I spell it right.
 
your google is certainly better than mine, then. ... even if I spell it right.
Hmmm ....
upload_2019-1-28_18-10-46.png


Kind Regards, John
 
If there is no live feed at the light/ceiling rose, then the older joint box at each light method was used. Just find an existing joint box to tap into for a L&N, to take it to an additional lighting joint box for your light, or use the more modern method of taking the L&N direct to the ceiling rose, then wire to the switch from that.

A few questions relating to this please:

1. What's the older joint box method? I assume that the live is fed at switch and looped there.
2. Isn't it easier/recommended to loop at switch as it offers more space (unlike many light fittings) and makes the changing of light fitting easier? Also, with multiple downlights, you will need to track down which light has the loop.
 
1. What's the older joint box method? I assume that the live is fed at switch and looped there.
Nope. https://www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:Lighting-Circuit-layouts


2. Isn't it easier/recommended to loop at switch as it offers more space (unlike many light fittings) and makes the changing of light fitting easier?
Yes.


Also, with multiple downlights, you will need to track down which light has the loop.
There is another solution to that problem.... ;)
 
Sorry, my question wasn't clear. I meant to say that I assume that my wiring method is loop at switch. Why have we assumed the junction box approach? I need to check to be sure! If it is loop at switch, will I need to chop the live that drops down to the switch and introduce a Junction Box which then feeds the light in question?

There is another solution to that problem.... ;)
Is that solution: loop at switch?
 
And if the current system is looping at switch, what’s the recommended solution?
 

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