Which MK sentry MCB?

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I have an mk sentry with mcb that is pictured on the RIGHT of the photo.


Will the left one also fit my unit (ignore the ratings) it looks similar in size except the dolly is slightly higher.

What others will fit my unit?

I'd like to buy a couple spare so next time the electrician comes I can have these ready if he needs to replace one inthe future.
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why not just buy MK ones? It's not a good idea to stick different types in the board - if there is a problem the manufacturer will only guarantee it if their type is fitted
 
I have an mk sentry with mcb that is pictured on the RIGHT of the photo.


Will the left one also fit my unit (ignore the ratings) it looks similar in size except the dolly is slightly higher.

What others will fit my unit?

I'd like to buy a couple spare so next time the electrician comes I can have these ready if he needs to replace one inthe future.
[/img]

if you lay 1 on top of the other, and the din rail fixings on the back are aligned, and the vertical height of the protruding section (which has the switch on it) is the same distance from both ends... then despite 1 protruding out more than the other it should fit.

probably just different revisions of the same item, possibly they increased the protrusion of the switch to allow for deeper consumer units.

but the alignment of the din rail fixings and distance from both ends to the protruding section is the important bit.

So both of the MK 1s you have illustrated should fit.

as above, DONT mix and match different makes of MCB as said, manufacturer wont guarantee, and also other makes dont normally tend to fit very well eigther because of design differences of the different consumer units.
 
why not just buy MK ones? It's not a good idea to stick different types in the board - if there is a problem the manufacturer will only guarantee it if their type is fitted

As i read it, he's bought MK ones, but they are of a different design. :D
 
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The right hand one is the older mk one, these are the same as merlin gerin ones now branded schneider, afaik they were exactly the same just branded different.
As above though I would keep them all MK if possible

The important thing to check with the old and new mk one is that the Bus bar terminal is the same type and spacing on both.
 
Indeed. MK have chaged the look of their MCBs 3 times in the last 10 years which makes consumer units look tat.
They are all compatable though. Keep all MK on MK board and you can't go wrong.


PS Wylex just changed the look of their MCBs - why do they do that, It makes additions to existing boards look all wrong :rolleyes:
 
Perhaps makers change their MCB's in order to keep up with changing fashion trends - it's the Twenty-Teens after all! :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 
Thanks for the replies.
Yes I did intend to stay with MK brands- I should have said 'what other MK mcb revisions would fit' in my question.

It is a confusing scenario- as the both mcb pics pictured are titled as LN59** but look different. Then in screwfix they also have an MK mcb with no mention of the LN59** - but looks like the left pic costing around £5.

Ebay is the only place I could find that sell the MK one that looks exactly like mine but costs around £7 (used). I think I'll order it so I have something in my hand to compare with. Then visit screwfix and measure-them up.

Guess you could ask why don't I save the £7 and just pull an unused mcb from my CU and take that to screwfix. But since I've never done that before I will leave it to the electrician to open and replace mcb's. I'll just save some money by not having him have to source the correct mcb and charging me for that bit.

Thanks all.


:D
 
The two types are totally compatable and fit. The only difference is that they have changed the look of the front of the breaker.

If you buy from Screwfix you know that you'll get a new and working product that you can send back if it doesn't work. With eBay you never know what you are going to get...
 
if you lay 1 on top of the other, and the din rail fixings on the back are aligned, and the vertical height of the protruding section (which has the switch on it) is the same distance from both ends... then despite 1 protruding out more than the other it should fit....but the alignment of the din rail fixings and distance from both ends to the protruding section is the important bit.
Also just as important are how far forward of the rail are the busbar tunnels (your alignment criteria could produce an apparent match which won't fit because the tunnel is too far forward or back), and the type of busbar (fork or prong).
 
I wasn't disagreeing that these two types are compatible, only that the method described by Click4 misses out on checking a vital characteristic.
 

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