whistling

Joined
4 Aug 2007
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Location
Glasgow
Country
United Kingdom
I have just replaced the washer part of the ball cock valve with what sounds like the exact same one as you did - part of a kit from B+Q (called 'Ball valve 1/2 inch high pressure part 1') with parts that appear to be almost identical to the existing setup. I just changed the plastic washer bit (about 1 inch long cylinder of plastic with black washer in the end) since the old one was nearly dead and leaking quite badly (never any whistling though), but left the rest of the old ball cock alone.

The new washer/old valve seems to work perfectly but whistles loudly (it does sound like a kettle!) when the tank is nearly full ie valve almost closed. It closes properly once the tank is full and doesn't make any more noise.

The whistling is slightly annoying but I'm more worried it might mean an imminent failure!

Should I stop buying stuff from B+Q and get a replacement washer from a plumber's merchant? Or is the whistling just an annoyance rather than a shoddy part?

Thanks, Matt
 
Sponsored Links
Have you turned on the stop cock more than it was before?
 
it is actually easier to swap the entire valve (you will usually find you can unfasten the working part from the tail) rather than to change just the washer. A complete new valve is quite inexpensive.

If it is in a WC cystern, you can use modern silent valves. I usually use Torbeck but there are others. They are very small and have a small float, not a long arm with a float on it.
 
Have you turned on the stop cock more than it was before?

No, I only turned off the main stop cock and I'm sure it was fully open before. I could maybe try closing it off a bit though? Our mains pressure is ridiculously high.

Removing the washer was an absolute doddle - from the look of the compression joint attaching the rest of the valve to the water supply I'd say that changing the whole valve would be a nightmare....
 
Sponsored Links
Just realised that I didn't mention in the original post that this is a ball cock valve in the water tank in the loft - sorry!
 
you need a brass "part 2" valve (this is the one with the plastic bridge on the top to direct the water spray downwards)

it is easy to fit because all the working parts can be unscrewed from the tail which is fastened to the cistern. Just one nut. This is easier than tinkering with a cone, split-pin and washers in a cramped dark loft

they are on special offer at screwfix ATM

p1031886_x.jpg


the Pegler one is more expensive but best quality.

p2329917_x.jpg
 
I took a Pt II valve to a job yesterday only to find that the combination plastic cistern had been drilled too high so the Pt II valve woutl not fit under the cover lip without removing the white plastic bridge.

Tony
 
you need a brass "part 2" valve (this is the one with the plastic bridge on the top to direct the water spray downwards)

it is easy to fit because all the working parts can be unscrewed from the tail which is fastened to the cistern. Just one nut. This is easier than tinkering with a cone, split-pin and washers in a cramped dark loft

they are on special offer at screwfix ATM

p1031886_x.jpg


the Pegler one is more expensive but best quality.

p2329917_x.jpg

Thanks guys, I will get a new valve on order and replace it when I get chance. I take it this isn't absolutely urgent - ie the whistling doesn't mean a catastrophic failure is imminent?

Thanks,

Matt
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top