Wiring 240v GU10 spotlights

[unlucky]

Hi all,

I'm looking into putting some spotlights into the kitchen and landing when re-wiring at the end of the month and was wondering about the best way to wire them up.

The two options I have are;

1 - A junction box where each of the lights is wired back to

2 - Each light daisy chained off the previous.

It's going to be 4 on the landing and two rows of three in the kitchen. The reason I'm wondering is because I presume the terminals on the lights are going to be small enough to make daisy chaining difficult / untidy.

But I'm also worried about the access to the junction box in the kitchen once everything is back down and plastered, I'm right in saying that I need to access the junction box through the light fittings? This shouldn't be too much of a worry on the landing as it will be accessable from the loft space.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Phil

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Any advice would be appreciated.

I advise not doing it.

You call them spotlights, which is accurate, and should alert you to the fact that they are designed to produce small spots of light to illuminate or highlight small features or individual items.

They are not designed to light up rooms.

 

[unlucky]

OK,

Thanks for that!

I've never had a problem with Spotlights I've had in previous houses, I might buy one and see how it performs on a temporary basis.

If it doesn't work what would people recommend??

Thanks in advance.

 

[OwainDIYer]

If you must have them, 12V lights with a transformer.

If you have mains lights you will go through bulbs like botulism through a pensioner.

 

[Steve]

Ban all sheds has a thing against downlighters.

He thinks they are ALL bad, and ALL equally bad at light up rooms. This simply isnt true.

Its good that you are choosing mains voltage downlights - they are more versatile.

See here: //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:gu10 for guidance on different types of lamp.

Its getting to the point now where LEDs are becoming an acceptable light source. But its still a matter of personal preference.

Look on ebay for the lamps - LEDs and CFLs are still expensive, but some ebay retailers sell at cost price. Try a few, see what you think.

Also google PL downlights, they are, IMO, better than all the above, but bigger. They use a U-shaped tube which plugs into a seperate ballast/starter. Altogether more elegant than an all-in-one lamp.

 

[Steve]

If you have mains lights you will go through bulbs like botulism through a pensioner.

Not if he follows my advice to get alternatives to halogen.

 

[unlucky]

botulism through a pensioner.

Like that analogy!!

Thanks Steve.

Another question then, googleing LED Spotlights I only get results for the bulbs, if I am gettting GU10 fittings do these just fix in as a direct replacement for the halogen bulbs? If so could I replace them as they go pop or will the different wattages on the same circuit make the halogens work harder and they will go pop earlier?

Thanks as always guys.

 

[Steve]

You can mix the LEDs and halogens on the same circuit / switch.

The LED lamps just replace a standard halogen lamp. They dont sell specific fittings for LEDs.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Ban all sheds has a thing against downlighters.

Not all, only the little ones.

He thinks they are ALL bad, and ALL equally bad at light up rooms. This simply isnt true.

The little ones are bad.

 

[FDJ]

My 4x4m kitchen has 4x standard downlight fittings which originally had R63 reflector lamps. I replaced the lamps with 20w CFL spiral lamps.
The light output is fantastic and very diffuse.

I think that anything called a "spotlight" is going to do just that. The lighting maybe very bright but also very harsh. The number of GU10's you would need to get anything like even illumination is going to be very inefficient.

Frank

 

[unlucky]

Steve, thanks as always, very helpful

I think I will take my chances with the GU10's and then replace with LED's as they go pop, which sounds like it will be pretty early on!

In the same vein, I was recently at a shed, (only for wood and only because it was a sunday, don't hate me!) and asked the guy who works on the electrics isle while passing his thoughts on the amount of space I need to provide around each spot, he said it didn't matter provided I used a heat sinc... Which didn't sound right.

I seem to remember something about min requirements for space if insulation is near, something like 50cm? Does that sound right?

How close can I put the spots in the kitchen ceiling to each other and what is the best junction box to use so it will be accessible through the holes the spots will create?

Thanks again.

Phil

 

[Steve]

In the same vein, I was recently at a shed, (only for wood and only because it was a sunday, don't hate me!) and asked the guy who works on the electrics isle while passing his thoughts on the amount of space I need to provide around each spot, he said it didn't matter provided I used a heat sinc... Which didn't sound right.

Typical of the "advice" from the "guy that works on the electrics aisle". Perhaps he meant firehoods. But these are not for this purpose. They are to prevent the spread of fire through a building, not to stop the lights setting things on fire. Firehoods are not to be used in most cases, unless it is a flat.

I seem to remember something about min requirements for space if insulation is near, something like 50cm? Does that sound right?

Theres no strict guidance. Check the instructions, if not mentioned, then make a box about 30cm will be sufficient, and lay the insulation over this.

How close can I put the spots in the kitchen ceiling to each other and what is the best junction box to use so it will be accessible through the holes the spots will create?

It depends what type of lamp you use I'd say as a guide, position them about a metre apart. Whatever looks good in the space.

LEDs would need to be closer to illuminate the space.

 

[diydazzler]

I've just put 2 rows of 4 GU10's (35w) in a bedroom,roughly 3.3mtr square on a dimmer and it's much better than the original pendant.
It's brighter and move evenly spread and not harsh at all

 

[Steve]

I've just put 2 rows of 4 GU10's (35w) in a bedroom,roughly 3.3mtr square on a dimmer and it's much better than the original pendant.
It's brighter and move evenly spread and not harsh at all

Thats because its on a dimmer.

And 280 watts of light compared to 60 watts, yeah, i'd expect it to be brighter.

You wouldnt think we live in an age of energy crisis.

 

[OwainDIYer]

I've just put 2 rows of 4 GU10's (35w) in a bedroom,roughly 3.3mtr square on a dimmer and it's much better than the original pendant.
It's brighter and move evenly spread and not harsh at all

Thats because its on a dimmer.

And 280 watts of light compared to 60 watts, yeah, i'd expect it to be brighter.

You wouldnt think we live in an age of energy crisis.

And they ban 100W filament bulbs ...