Wiring new hob and oven in to Cooker Circuit

[AyeTee]

Need some advice, I have just purchased an electric hob and integrated electric oven to match my new kitchen. They have wiring as follows:-

1. The hob has wiring with no 13a plug, the wire is T&E and appears to need to be wired directly in to the wall terminals.

2. The oven has a 13a plug connected.

My problem is the old cooker is wired directly in to the wall, which is switched above the worktop with a cooker switch and leads back to the CU protected with a 32a MCB. So this is a dedicated circuit.

Can someone advise the best and safest way to wire both my new appliances in to the existing circuit. I have read a lot of articles most of which give conflicting advice.

 

[echoes]

Your 32A circuit is suitable for up to 15 kW of domestic cooking appliances.

In your situation, I would run 6mm² cable from the switched side of the cooker switch to a cooker outlet plate, and then from the cooker outlet plate in 2.5mm² cable to an unswitched single socket for the oven.
If space is tight and the plug & socket would stick out too much, you could use a 13 A FCU instead of the socket, cut the plug off, and wire oven into the FCU's flex outlet.

Alternatively, wire both appliaces to a dual-outlet cooker connection unit fed with 6mm² cable from the cooker switch. There has been some debate about whether the the 32A MCB is adequate to protect the cooker flex from overload, but since it's a fixed appliance, it difficult to see how an overload would occur. The oven manufacturer's instructions may dictate.

EDIT: Observe safe zones for the cable run, the MI's may restrict the positioning of the connection unit/socket/whatever.

 

[1550]

Did this hob come pre-wired in twin and earth from new?

 

[Taylortwocities]

What is the power rating of the hob. It may need the existing cooker circuit all to itself.

Was the old set up a seoparate hob & oven or was it an all in one cooker?

 

[AyeTee]

Just to expand on what I have, there is a wall plate that runs off of the cooker switch and from the wall plate to the Belling Format cooker (hob/oven in one free standing unit) in 6mm2 cable. Just looked and can't see the max wattage consumption on the Belling.

The new hob has a max consumption of 6600w (and came wired from new). The new oven has a max consumption of 2400w.

If I go with this below for the oven, what would I do for the hob?

In your situation, I would run 6mm² cable from the switched side of the cooker switch to a cooker outlet plate, and then from the cooker outlet plate in 2.5mm² cable to an unswitched single socket for the oven.
If space is tight and the plug & socket would stick out too much, you could use a 13 A FCU instead of the socket, cut the plug off, and wire oven into the FCU's flex outlet.

Does this mean wire both appliances in to the wall face plate of my existing setup? what is a dual-outlet cooker connection unit?

Alternatively, wire both appliaces to a dual-outlet cooker connection unit fed with 6mm² cable from the cooker switch. There has been some debate about whether the the 32A MCB is adequate to protect the cooker flex from overload, but since it's a fixed appliance, it difficult to see how an overload would occur. The oven manufacturer's instructions may dictate.

Thanks!

 

[AyeTee]

Also, cutting off the 13a plug would mean the only fuse protection on the oven would be the 32a MCB which could cause problems with potentially overloading the appliance? Must have a 13a plug because there is no internal fuse?

In your situation, I would run 6mm² cable from the switched side of the cooker switch to a cooker outlet plate, and then from the cooker outlet plate in 2.5mm² cable to an unswitched single socket for the oven.
If space is tight and the plug & socket would stick out too much, you could use a 13 A FCU instead of the socket, cut the plug off, and wire oven into the FCU's flex outlet.

Now know what a dual outlet cooker conection is. Would this still be an option with the 13a fused plug removed?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Also, cutting off the 13a plug would mean the only fuse protection on the oven would be the 32a MCB which could cause problems with potentially overloading the appliance? Must have a 13a plug because there is no internal fuse?

You cannot overload the appliance but you may overload the flex. That is why it has a 13A fuse.

Now know what a dual outlet cooker conection is. Would this still be an option with the 13a fused plug removed?

NO. It was a bad suggestion. With no 'down-fusing' you would have to use 4mm² cable from wall plate to hob and oven.

To use the existing oven flex you either need a socket or a Fused Connection Unit next to and wired from the wall plate.

 

[echoes]

Agree with that ^^^^^^ - better the FCU or socket option for the oven.

 

[AyeTee]

Thanks Guys

Seems like a socket for the oven is the way to go on the existing 6mm2 oven flex.

For the hob, are the two options to either fit a plug with 13a fuse and use a socket or wire direct in to the wall plate? Which would be best and safest? assuming I will use a socket for the oven.

 

[echoes]

Your hob will need wiring direct to the cooker connection plate via its cable outlet.

It must not be connected by a 13A plug and socket since its max demand at full load is 6.6 kW, or about 29 A. Max load for a 13 A socket is ~ 3 kW.

so...

Cooker switch ---> 6mm² ---> cooker outlet (HOB) ---> 2.5mm² ---> 13A FCU (OVEN) or 13A socket (unswitched)

(One could put the Cooker outlet and FCU/socket together on a dual back box designed to fit 2 single accessories - make sure it's a deep one - that 6mm² can be a PITA to terminate)

 

[ban-all-sheds]

AyeTee - on balance I think you should get an electrician.

Adding sockets and FCUs requires notification anyway.