Wobbling Stand Alone Tap
- Thread starter D.I.Why?
- Start date
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If he fits them all like he fitted that one I'm not surprised, what a butcher. There's hardly any wood left under that baseplate and what there is is all split to buggery.
It does look a bad design though, but there's no excuse for that kind of workmanship.
D
dextrous
In fairness to the installer, he is a w*nker
First off I’d like to thank everyone for taking the time to help.
Secondly let me respond to a few of the questions/comments so far.
“In the first pic you can see the offcut of wood. He stitch drilled it and whacked it out is my guess”. – Correct.
“good old fashioned butchery is what it is !!”. – That had crossed my mind once or twice while he was here
“Made for people who like to show the neighbours how nice their new bathroom is”. – Isn’t that the point , otherwise I’d use a hosepipe and bucket.
“That ain’t no stand alone - What is the large ring halfway up the stem for -other than to cover something @ that height which the stem passes through- and steadies it all”. - That’s the cover for the base plate...still not sure what you thought it was!?!
“so he did what the customer wanted”. – If he’d done what I wanted I wouldn’t be asking for help on here!
“Why are you fitting the tap now?”. - I didn’t want to; he said he couldn’t do it once the Ply/Tiles were down. (Still not best pleased about this situation ).
“that tap was designed for an inset bath or sunken bath, it gets screwed to the floor and then the cowl sits ot the finished surface where the cowl would be set in place by silicone sealer”. – A confident statement but trust me that’s not the case I know what I’ve bought it’s just the fitting I’m struggling with.
Think I’ll ponder the support between two joists idea... A bit industrial, but I’m starting to feel the tap is, quite simply, badly designed!
Always open to further ideas
Cheers,
Brian.
Secondly let me respond to a few of the questions/comments so far.
“In the first pic you can see the offcut of wood. He stitch drilled it and whacked it out is my guess”. – Correct.
“good old fashioned butchery is what it is !!”. – That had crossed my mind once or twice while he was here
“Made for people who like to show the neighbours how nice their new bathroom is”. – Isn’t that the point
, otherwise I’d use a hosepipe and bucket. “That ain’t no stand alone - What is the large ring halfway up the stem for -other than to cover something @ that height which the stem passes through- and steadies it all”. - That’s the cover for the base plate...still not sure what you thought it was!?!
“so he did what the customer wanted”. – If he’d done what I wanted I wouldn’t be asking for help on here!
“Why are you fitting the tap now?”. - I didn’t want to; he said he couldn’t do it once the Ply/Tiles were down. (Still not best pleased about this situation
).“that tap was designed for an inset bath or sunken bath, it gets screwed to the floor and then the cowl sits ot the finished surface where the cowl would be set in place by silicone sealer”. – A confident statement but trust me that’s not the case
I know what I’ve bought it’s just the fitting I’m struggling with. Think I’ll ponder the support between two joists idea... A bit industrial, but I’m starting to feel the tap is, quite simply, badly designed!
Always open to further ideas
Cheers,
Brian.
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D
dextrous
Out of idle curiousity, when the tiles go down (on top of that 25mm plywood screwed every 6 inches), I take it that the whole of the tap body will be removed from the floorplate. So I take it that water to this outlet can be isolated while all this is going on?
I've seen that tap before in a showroom and it's for a free standing bath.....the cowl cover the base plate like the one I saw.
IT looks pretty much like most other floor mounted taps to me.
You would need a very solid floor. I can't really be sure what he's fixed it to. It looks like he's made a hole in one floorboard to fix it in one laying on top...??
The floor board we can see looks like it might be very short, across just one joinst-gap. Not good. Cut out some more boards and replace with a big square of 3/4" marine (Or other dense WBP) ply. If you tile over it as it is, with the usual inadequate 9mm, it'll crack up in no time.
If the vertical tube is springing, nowt you can do, that's what you bought. But I don't see why it should be spinning. Just do it up tight!
Maybe the male thread on the baseis too short? Is the female thread longer? What diameter is it? Check with the manufacturer/supplier.
What are those straight structures? Joints or...? blue
why are there gaps red?
What is this layer of wood, green - it doesn't appear in the other pic. If there are two layers, screw them together!!
You would need a very solid floor. I can't really be sure what he's fixed it to. It looks like he's made a hole in one floorboard to fix it in one laying on top...??
The floor board we can see looks like it might be very short, across just one joinst-gap. Not good. Cut out some more boards and replace with a big square of 3/4" marine (Or other dense WBP) ply. If you tile over it as it is, with the usual inadequate 9mm, it'll crack up in no time.
If the vertical tube is springing, nowt you can do, that's what you bought. But I don't see why it should be spinning. Just do it up tight!
Maybe the male thread on the baseis too short? Is the female thread longer? What diameter is it? Check with the manufacturer/supplier.
What are those straight structures? Joints or...? blue
why are there gaps red?
What is this layer of wood, green - it doesn't appear in the other pic. If there are two layers, screw them together!!
I`ve got me glasses on now
Has your plumber assembled all the bits in the correct order?
I would have expected assembling and fully tightening all the column joints to be one of the first operations, using an appropriate strap wrench etc. to fully tighten all the joints, using thread locking compound / grub screws / dutch keys as necessary to positively lock all the joints, making the whole column and it's base plate a rigid structure.
It looks to me like a slightly larger, but better formed hole in the floorboards would allow the square block with the water connections to be connected to the pipework under the floor, then pulled up through the hole and fitted to the base of the previously assembled column after the floor is completely finished and tiled. The last part of the job would then be fixing the column base with screws through the tiles into the ply and floorboards underneath. The fixing plate and all the screws would easily be concealed by that generously sized escutcheon.
I would have expected assembling and fully tightening all the column joints to be one of the first operations, using an appropriate strap wrench etc. to fully tighten all the joints, using thread locking compound / grub screws / dutch keys as necessary to positively lock all the joints, making the whole column and it's base plate a rigid structure.
It looks to me like a slightly larger, but better formed hole in the floorboards would allow the square block with the water connections to be connected to the pipework under the floor, then pulled up through the hole and fitted to the base of the previously assembled column after the floor is completely finished and tiled. The last part of the job would then be fixing the column base with screws through the tiles into the ply and floorboards underneath. The fixing plate and all the screws would easily be concealed by that generously sized escutcheon.
just gonna add my thoughts.
Did the plumber know any details of the job before arriving? Quite often I'm sent to "just fit a tap, won't take long" when actually it needs some planning.
Did he go away and get materials? ie could he have got some extra wood while away or is there any on site?
In the first photo I see the underside of the baseplate and a smaller brass fitting into that. I don't notice the 6 securing screws penetrating through the floor board. No way is a screw that short gonna fix anything solid - let alone on a tiny section of floorboard that can't be secure itself.
If it were me I'd wanna use at least 10 x 2 1/2" or even 12 x 2 1/2" screws. These wanna go down into 4 x 2" that's been secure wedged / screwed between joists. Can't imagine that moving much.
Any other movement would be flexi's, o-rings or joints spinning in my opinion.
Did the plumber know any details of the job before arriving? Quite often I'm sent to "just fit a tap, won't take long" when actually it needs some planning.
Did he go away and get materials? ie could he have got some extra wood while away or is there any on site?
In the first photo I see the underside of the baseplate and a smaller brass fitting into that. I don't notice the 6 securing screws penetrating through the floor board. No way is a screw that short gonna fix anything solid - let alone on a tiny section of floorboard that can't be secure itself.
If it were me I'd wanna use at least 10 x 2 1/2" or even 12 x 2 1/2" screws. These wanna go down into 4 x 2" that's been secure wedged / screwed between joists. Can't imagine that moving much.
Any other movement would be flexi's, o-rings or joints spinning in my opinion.
Hi,
Once again thanks for taking the time to reply.... it's sorted!
marcr - I noticed the shortness of the screws as well and have used longer ones.
TicklyT - Has your plumber assembled all the bits in the correct order? Apparently you get the prize.
One of the lads from work popped over for 5 minutes dropping something off... He texted me later and said "By the way I've fixed your tap".... Sure enough, he had! Apparently you have to tighten everything up in the correct sequence (This was never indicated anywhere, no fitting instructions... and if there were the Ex-Plumber disposed of the evidence).
Well all's well that ends well.... I'll let you know if if falls through to the kitchen, sending a 20ft water jet across the landing into the bedroom.
Brian.
(p.s. In case you didn't pick up on it earlier - the Plumber is history!)
Once again thanks for taking the time to reply.... it's sorted!
marcr - I noticed the shortness of the screws as well and have used longer ones.
TicklyT - Has your plumber assembled all the bits in the correct order? Apparently you get the prize.
One of the lads from work popped over for 5 minutes dropping something off... He texted me later and said "By the way I've fixed your tap".... Sure enough, he had! Apparently you have to tighten everything up in the correct sequence (This was never indicated anywhere, no fitting instructions... and if there were the Ex-Plumber disposed of the evidence).
Well all's well that ends well.... I'll let you know if if falls through to the kitchen, sending a 20ft water jet across the landing into the bedroom.
Brian.
(p.s. In case you didn't pick up on it earlier - the Plumber is history!)
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