Worcester Heatslave 15/19 lockout

[Fieldside]

Hi hope you can help
We have oil
We did not run out of oil
Hot water works well
Heating runs warmish not hot
Honeywell V4044f11411 diverter valve, pump side and pipe that runs to tank run hot. Pipe to radiators warmish.
Pressure guage goes up.
Manual slider on diverter valve loses spring back
Then boiler locksout pressure gradually goes back to normal
Am I right that the diverter valve need replacing?

 

[oilman]

No, you are not right given the information so far.

What do you mean by "locksout" Is this the burner or the limit stat?

Please write your problem with a little more effort. All anyone here has to go on is your description of circumstances. If you don't describe the problem, its difficult to help.

 

[Burnerman]

The burner lockout is the red lamp that lights on the burner control box and I don't see a connection between that and the diverter valve - which could well be at fault.....but it shouldn't cause the burner to fail.
John

 

[Fieldside]

Thats what I don't understand as every other listing on here says that when lockout button lights up is to do with lack of oil. I just wondered if their is a pressure sensor or valve that would trip the lockout to stop burner as the pressure goes up to 3 bar. This would stop the boiler pressure getting any higher. ie is the diverter valve stuck slightly open letting some hot water thru.

 

[slapper]

what model heatslave is it?

 

[Fieldside]

Its a Worcester Heatslave 15/19 its about 12 years old

 

[slapper]

Sorry,didnt see it before,very much sounds like diverter valve,if you manuelly push the lever theres a cut out in the head that will hold the lever in place so that youve got some heating

 

[Agile]

The pressure increasing may indicate a failed expansion vessel.

There may be poor circulation causing the boiler to overheat. Can you put the boiler into CH only and feel the flow and return pipes and judge the temperature. There should only be a smaller difference between them.

Tony

 

[Burnerman]

You can get the stepper motor that works the diverter valve from Plumb Center for about £15 if you find that its faulty.....no draining down!
John

 

[Boilerman2]

From the very confusing orignal post money spent on a Solenoid coil for the oil pump would be wiser!!

 

[Fieldside]

I have taken the diverter valve off the boiler leaving a keyed vertical spindle on the valve which moves manually about 20 degrees. Turning the heating on with the solenoid off the spindle, the solenoid continually turns but springs back when it gets to its fullest point.
There is also a micro switch in the honeywell solenoid box which controls the pump . Even with the lever in manual nothing seems to switch this micro switch on.( the lever does not get close

I can get the central heating hot if I turn it on with the lever in manual and jam the micro switch on therefore turn the pump on otherwise the pump does not seem to be on. However the pressure rises to above 2 bar.

Any ideas please?

 

[slapper]

From the very confusing orignal post money spent on a Solenoid coil for the oil pump would be wiser!!

 

[Burnerman]

It seems now that the burner is working ok?
Pressure at rest should be about 1 bar, and should rise to about 1.5 bar when the heating is on.
If its rising too high, the expansion vessel (big red thing inside) needs to be checked for the correct air pressure inside it. However, the system should be completely depressurised to check. I think thats in the FAQ's somewhere.
John

 

[Fieldside]

Is the micro switch in the diverter the only thing that controls the pump? because if so there is no way this will work as nothing gets anywhere near it when the actuator moves.
re

 

[slapper]

Seemples,you need a new motor/actuator.