Worcester Heatslave 20/25 fan keeps running

[Terrywookfit]

If you want to retain a post purge to prevent smells. I have a P P unit removed from a leaking boiler you can have for a sensible price,
I have retired so no use to me.

The diverter fails to H W supply ie No Heating.

 

[Terrywookfit]

Thanks, I'll try to get a good look at the weekend, but I fear it might be getting beyond my abilities! Is the "PPU" an actual physical box, or is it part of one of the other electrical assemblies in there (like the programmer or the display where I set what times I want the heating to come on and off)?

I'm actually wondering whether we should just cut our losses on this boiler. It'll be 30 years old next year, and most of the parts seem to be unobtainable anyway. The diverter valve is also playing up, so whether or not we get hot water, is a bit of a "lucky dip" situation! I don't know whether that's the diverter valve, to be honest, or whether it's something that senses when the hot tap is turned on? I'm inclined to think it's the diverter, because when you open the hot tap, there is a click, and the burner fires, you just don't always get much hot water! (You obviously get SOME, because of what's in the slave tank, but not enough to run a bath).

If I was looking for a new oil boiler, is there a brand that you'd recommend? This one is the 20/25, so it would have to be a fairly big one. I think we have about 14 radiators, but some are doubles,so I don't know if they're counted as one or two?

The slave tank should be fully heated PRIOR to running a bath

 

[Avocet]

Thanks everyone.

Sorry, this weekend didn't quite work out as planned, with my dad getting taken into hospital! However, I did manage to swap the complete burner assembly. Obviously, this hasn't fixed the problem, but as I had a spare assembly, it means I can still keep the house warm and I can work on the other assembly at my leisure.

The connector right t the top of the photo is, I assume, the power to the motor. (There's another wise coming from the motor but it just goes to the motor's own capacitor).

Sorry, not a great photo. Will try to get a better one, but that's the Satronic control unit off.

Again, I'll try with a better camera.

The three wires from the motor coming into the junction box, are the standard blue, brown and yellow / green.

That's as far as I've got up to now!

 

[Avocet]

If you want to retain a post purge to prevent smells. I have a P P unit removed from a leaking boiler you can have for a sensible price,
I have retired so no use to me.

The diverter fails to H W supply ie No Heating.

Thanks! Will send you a PM.

 

[oilhead]

as both Terry and I have both said, if the problem is with the post purge unit, then changing the burner will not saolve the fan running on problem. You need to feed the motor live feed direct from terminal 4, and disconnect the ppu conections and make them safe.

 

[Avocet]

as both Terry and I have both said, if the problem is with the post purge unit, then changing the burner will not saolve the fan running on problem. You need to feed the motor live feed direct from terminal 4, and disconnect the ppu conections and make them safe.

Yes I know. This just allows me to keep the boiler running (it's quite cold up here!) while I do that on the other burner.