yet another kitchen

Small update - both the ring main and radial are 2.5mm² run in plaster with steel capping. I think that makes Iz 21A and BS3036(?) semi-enclosed fuses of 30A for ring and 15A for radial.

I took the kitchen ceiling down and removed the redundant immersion cable. Looking at all the wiring, it wouldn't be too much extra work to create a new separate ring for the kitchen - I heard this is preferred. I need to decide before the pre-work LABC inspection.
 
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Heard where?
One electrician, who quoted a fortune for the work! He was also proposing to move the CU onto the distribution board. I wasn't happy with his quote or suggestions.

Is it a good idea to have all the kitchen outlets on the same ring?
Separate ring, or separate circuit?
I've got myself going round in circles here. :( (or is that rings ;))

I had previously decided to use the old 2.5mm² immersion heater radial for 2 sockets under the counter, with an isolation switch in place of the original immersion heater switch. That would provide an accessible isolation switch for inaccessible sockets.

While I was pulling out the redundant 3C+E immersion heater cable, I had a mad moment and thought of incorporating the radial into a ring. However, I'd probably have to change from a single isolation switch on the radial for the under-counter sockets to 2 separate switched spurs off a ring, with a single socket on each spur and 2 isolation switches above the counter. Actually, that doesn't sound too bad. :confused:

It then seems to make more sense to put new fused spur outlets for the boiler and cooker hood, all in the same corner, on that ring. Fortunately, I don't want any wall units in that corner, as it is difficult to avoid the safe zones.

I was originally going to create a whole new ring off a spare slot in the CU. The main reason was to get a socket on the opposite party wall in the kitchen, so I could run a large fridge/freezer. I was also going to add more sockets to the party wall in other rooms, as that side of the house is currently only served by one double socket. However, by incorporating the old immersion heater radial into the new ring, I don't even have to use another CU slot. (I'm going to change the 6-way fuse box anyway, but it needs to be under 230mm wide to fit in the cupboard.)
 
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Oh no! not again...

Most of the alterations I need will be within arm's reach of a SS sink. I'm going to plumb the sink in with plastic pipes. There is an existing earth cable run from the CU to under the sink. Should I bond the metal sink and tap to earth?

I am now thinking I could remove the ring main from the corner by the sink and add a local RCD on the radial. Is that a good idea? So, I'd have
  • the radial coming direct from the CU into an RCD by the ceiling
    down to a switched 3A fused spur connection for the cooker hood
    down to an isolator switch (in place of the immersion heater switch) for the gas igniter socket spur
    across to an isolator switch (in place of the old ring main socket) for the washing machine socket spur
    up to the ceiling via the old ring main capping
    finally down to a switched 3A fused spur for the gas combi boiler
With a single 2.5mm² TC+E cable run in plaster under galvanised steel capping, will I be OK with an Iz of 20A?
 

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