Zanussi WJS1397W - Machine had stopped, would attempt to drain if set to that program with timer but nothing else (no drum drive), timer was not turning - opened up and found broken drive belt which I replaced and a damaged motor wire (insulation cut into presumably by the belt when it was braking up). Still no go so I then removed and checked timer (was ok) - traced timer 240Vac supply wires back to a pcb at the rear of the m/c on bottom right hand side and found the pcb was burnt out.
Now the questions - what is this pcb called so I know what to ask for when I am looking for a replacement (motor drive pcb? psu?) and why aren't there any fuses on it? - as if I need to ask!
Is it likely that the motor is also u/s? Is there any way to check the motor before fitting the new board?
What I also noticed is that where the motor cables are tywrapped to the motor casing the tywrap was so tight that presumably along with the vibration of the motor, the motor casing/tywrap had started to dig into the insulation on the wires quite badly (not all the way through but not very far off!) so I have secured them else where - one to watch out for!
UPDATE: 17/01/08
I have now fixed the m/c - the control module had gone but I managed to source a second hand one from a FJS1197W along with a timer module (as a spare ) off eBay for £30 .
Trouble was, when I received the module that didn't work either! (still no drum drive) The seller said his m/c had been scrapped as he also had no drum drive but an appliance engineer had told him the motor was u/s, so I gambled that the control module would be OK (after all the engineer must know what he's talking about, right?), but a bit of fault finding on the new module showed one of the two relays was u/s, so I swapped both of them with the originals off the blown up board and hey presto! the new module worked ok . I did let the seller know that his motor was possibly OK as his control module was probably the problem all along - I don't think he'll be using that particular appliance engineer again somehow!
So if you get a no drum drive problem and the module looks ok, remove the relays and check them with a 24Vdc psu and a multimeter or find someone who can - it isn't more than 10 minutes of a job even if you have to pay someone.
This is what I 'think' happened: The belt snapped while the machine was in use (probably under load) which caused the motor to generate a massive spike (because it then runs at no load speed), which in turn blew the control module.
I did try to repair the old module but tracked the fault down to the large surface mount IC on the RHS of the picture which is a custom IC (triac and s/m transistors were also blown along the way).
While I was doing the above fault finding, I did find that a defective control module will also cause the timer to run through all the programs very quickly as per this fault
Hope all this info helps someone else.
Now the questions - what is this pcb called so I know what to ask for when I am looking for a replacement (motor drive pcb? psu?) and why aren't there any fuses on it? - as if I need to ask!
Is it likely that the motor is also u/s? Is there any way to check the motor before fitting the new board?
What I also noticed is that where the motor cables are tywrapped to the motor casing the tywrap was so tight that presumably along with the vibration of the motor, the motor casing/tywrap had started to dig into the insulation on the wires quite badly (not all the way through but not very far off!) so I have secured them else where - one to watch out for!
UPDATE: 17/01/08
I have now fixed the m/c - the control module had gone but I managed to source a second hand one from a FJS1197W along with a timer module (as a spare
) off eBay for £30 . Trouble was, when I received the module that didn't work either! (still no drum drive)
The seller said his m/c had been scrapped as he also had no drum drive but an appliance engineer had told him the motor was u/s, so I gambled that the control module would be OK (after all the engineer must know what he's talking about, right?), but a bit of fault finding on the new module showed one of the two relays was u/s, so I swapped both of them with the originals off the blown up board and hey presto! the new module worked ok . I did let the seller know that his motor was possibly OK as his control module was probably the problem all along - I don't think he'll be using that particular appliance engineer again somehow!So if you get a no drum drive problem and the module looks ok, remove the relays and check them with a 24Vdc psu and a multimeter or find someone who can - it isn't more than 10 minutes of a job even if you have to pay someone.
This is what I 'think' happened: The belt snapped while the machine was in use (probably under load) which caused the motor to generate a massive spike (because it then runs at no load speed), which in turn blew the control module.
I did try to repair the old module but tracked the fault down to the large surface mount IC on the RHS of the picture which is a custom IC (triac and s/m transistors were also blown along the way).
While I was doing the above fault finding, I did find that a defective control module will also cause the timer to run through all the programs very quickly as per this fault
Hope all this info helps someone else.
