latex over plywood

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Hi guys. I will redo my bathroom in a few months time ( floor tiles down) and in my previous thread i was made aware of the problem when two different floor substrates join up ( in my case the substrate is concrete with a 25mm step and to make up that 25mm difference in height, a 25mm thick plywood sheet 800mm by 1800mm has been screwed down onto the concrete to bring the floor level allover) regarding the expansion and retraction of the plywood and the concrete and therefore the chances that the tile or the grout could crack. In this forum i was made aware of the existence of an uncoupling membrane ( Schluter) which sounds like it could be a good option, however i passed a shop yesterday and a couple of tilers were working in it and asked them if there was another alternative to that suggested above. They said that, where they find the above issue, they skim a thin layer of Latex slc allover the plywood, up and slightly over the gap where the two different substrates meet. Has any professional tiler in this forum ever used the above mentioned technique successfully? I am trying to gather as much infos as possible in order to come up with a final and sensible decision in the end. Thanks again for your time.
 
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Sorry Richard i did not mean to offend you......as a matter of fact you have been very helpful in my previous threads and i do appreciate that. If you have experience of latex slc please do post your comments...............what i meant is that i would appreciate if other members with experience could also give their inputs, provided they have got the time, that is, of course ;)
 
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Hi prceramics. The reason why i want to make the height with plywood instead of with slc is to reduce dry off time. I suppose a 25mm thick pour of slc is going to take approx 10 days to dry before i can tile over it.....unless you are aware of a latex slc which sets quite quickly even if laid 25-28mm thick. Ta.
 
The reason why i want to make the height with plywood instead of with slc is to reduce dry off time. I suppose a 25mm thick pour of slc is going to take approx 10 days to dry before i can tile over it.
Where did yo get the 10 days from; BAL do SLC’s that can be laid up to 50mm thick & tiled after 4 hours although IMO you would be wise to leave it till next day. Ardex do similar products.

I see no point in cutting corners or rushing the job only to have it fail in just a few weeks, you’ll then have severe depletion of the wallet & wish you hadn’t!
 
Hi prceramics. The reason why i want to make the height with plywood instead of with slc is to reduce dry off time. I suppose a 25mm thick pour of slc is going to take approx 10 days to dry before i can tile over it.....unless you are aware of a latex slc which sets quite quickly even if laid 25-28mm thick. Ta.

justs seems stange to use ply instead of slc and slc instead of ditra think would be a sounder base to just slc it then tile happy days :) think ardex can be tiled in four hours but as advised above i would give it 24
 
Hi prceramics. Is Ardex latex slc application ready to be tiled in 24 hours even after applying it 25-28mm thick? Thanks for answering.
 
Hi prceramics. Is Ardex latex slc application ready to be tiled in 24 hours even after applying it 25-28mm thick? Thanks for answering.

look on there website it says 4hours at 10 mm thick you will have to look into the specs mate but think will be a better solution
 
i would appreciate if other members with experience could also give their inputs, provided they have got the time, that is, of course ;)

Hi prceramics. Is Ardex latex slc application ready to be tiled in 24 hours even after applying it 25-28mm thick? Thanks for answering.
look on there website it says 4hours at 10 mm thick you will have to look into the specs mate but think will be a better solution
I think you just got the answer you were looking for & I’ve obviously become invisible; good luck with it, see ya! ;)
 
Thank you for your time prceramics and sorry Richard if I offended you I really did not mean to. Have a nice evening guys.
 
Thank you for your time prceramics and sorry Richard if I offended you I really did not mean to. Have a nice evening guys.

no worrys mate :) and as for Richard if i had a problem he would be one of the first i ask for advice.
 
Ply directly onto the concrete...IMO I wouldn't have done that...if your doing it this way,you will need air flow under the ply,so fixed onto battens first...

Is there a dpm under the concrete,did you prime the underside/edges off the ply...your leaving yourself open to the ply warping...what type off fixing did you use,what spacing....

Me,..I would have fixed a insulation board 20/22mm thick then a latex based slc...(F Ball). Green bag with stopgap 114/128,primer on concrete first tho..

When using a slc to get a large hit...up tp 50mm,you will be looking at a fibre based one...biulding up in stages if not used to working with it...

The Bal ones,you need to build up with 3/6mm wbp ply,check their spec!! After spreading theirs onto the floor....

for exspansion joint,just use a silicone the same colour as your grout...


.
 
Ply directly onto the concrete...IMO I wouldn't have done that...if your doing it this way,you will need air flow under the ply,so fixed onto battens first...

Is there a dpm under the concrete,did you prime the underside/edges off the ply...your leaving yourself open to the ply warping...what type off fixing did you use,what spacing....

Me,..I would have fixed a insulation board 20/22mm thick then a latex based slc...(F Ball). Green bag with stopgap 114/128,primer on concrete first tho..

When using a slc to get a large hit...up tp 50mm,you will be looking at a fibre based one...biulding up in stages if not used to working with it...

The Bal ones,you need to build up with 3/6mm wbp ply,check their spec!! After spreading theirs onto the floor....

for exspansion joint,just use a silicone the same colour as your grout...


.
good advice perhaps start at 10mm
tic tac just ordered myself one of them marshall town grout floats mate quite reasonable :D
 

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