brick work in kitchen

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Please could any one help me? i removed my kitchen sink as they were insects gettng in somehow,"after i found an hole in the wall "however when i removed it i found the wall behind was drylined straight on to bare brick work the plaster board was rotten to the core and i had to pull it all down now im down to bare brick! would it be better to render this brick to prevent damp in the future or to dry line again ,or do i need to apply anything to the brick work ! sorry for long question any advise would be gratefully appriciated! thankyou :( as im at the end of my tever of what to do !
steve :)
 
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Dry lining is quiet common on newer houses or where houses have been renovated. It’s a cheaper option than traditional plaster but not as robust or, IMO, desirable.
There are different types of plasterboard for different applications. Ordinary wall board (grey) will disintegrate if it gets wet, kitchens & bathrooms are best lined with Moisture Resistant board (green) & if you decide to replace, this is what you should use. You can tile straight onto MR board but it must be primed if you want to plaster it.

You could render & finish the block work & plaster over that but render will not prevent damp & will also deteriorate if continually exposed to damp, if damp is coming through the wall from outside it will need special attention. Do you know what type of walls you have, solid or cavity? How old is the property? As the problem is behind the sink, I strongly suspect that the problem has been caused by nothing more than a leak or continual wetting due to water getting down the back of the sink.
 
Hello richard and thanks for your reply, im a 1st time user so i hope you rcieve this! the kitchen in question is actually an extension ,and i think it was built about 30 yrs ago! however i since found out the damp is not only confined to behind the sink ! the whole plasterboard behind he kitchen units is rotten ! think it all needs to come down? the wall "" as i found out since removing the previous plasterboard" is single brick with no cavity ,so im not sure how todeal with this problem ,im pretty good at diy ,but what would you advis richard !
once again thanks for your reply
 
Even if built 30 years ago, it should still have been built with cavity walls. I suspect what you have is either someone’s cheapo & unauthorised extension or a converted outhouse or conservatory; what sort of roof construction does it have? Do you intend to completely refurbish the kitchen? Problem is that once you start a complete renovation, the work must comply with current Building Regulations; when you eventually sell, you will be asked to produce documentation to prove what you’ve done complies with Building Regulations otherwise it will be classed as unauthorised building works & will give you problems with the sale.

Options are;
build an inner block work skin to crate an insulated cavity & plaster/dry line
line the walls with a moisture proof membrane & insulation boards & dry line with PB over that
The roof may also require additional insulation,

Sorry, got to go now am loosing my power at 9, will be back this afternoon.

EDIT
Just been told by EDF, the work has been cancelled :rolleyes: :evil:
 
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Hi there Richard! its an extension and the roof looks like bitumen felt ! the strange thing is I HAD a full survey done which cost about £800 6 years ago WHEN I BOUGHT THE HOUSE and nothing was said in the report about any Bodgitt and Scarper type extension ! but i think your right ! to be honest richard i only wanted to take out the sink to try and find where the insects were coming from? and half the kitchen came down with it !!.. i could replace the units ""ie cubard and wall units with out any additional electricl work being needed but i do need to replace the sink as its now in pieces in the back garden!
i think ill go with your insulation board option and pb over them ??
Richard do i need to brush the walls with some type of moisture proof resin or will it be like a plastic type coating i would cover with 1st ?
thanks a million for your help !!
 
Don't talk to me about surveys, Ive had my own problems to the extent I would never pay for another; I've concluded if you know enough to spot potential problems, your better off doing a DIY job.

Whatever you do with a single skin wall you are always likely to get damp penetrating through form the outside in inclement weather, this is why the original dry lining system has now decayed. You need to provide a moisture proof barrier between the outer wall & the inner wall lining system but this must also allow air circulation or you will have problems with condensation, leading to even more moisture. Some form of breathable membrane fixed to the inside of the single skin wall. Here’s a link which may be useful;
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/liningdampwalls.htm

You can then decide if you wish to provide additional insulation by way of specialist plasterboard products such as;
http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...es/gyproc_thermal/gyproc_thermaline_plus.aspx

Or use a simple Duplex wall board system which will provide a vapour barrier but will do little to increase thermal insulation;
http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ.../gyproc_standard/gyproc_wallboard_duplex.aspx

Painting the outside of the wall with a clear water proof sealer will also help.

I would reiterate my warning that if any future buyer’s survey identifies that building work has been done & you can’t produce the necessary documents to prove it is B Regs. compliant, you will have problems. There are also specific questions on the HIPS questionnaire regarding building works & although some will lie, increasingly, this is not a good option because if you get found out, you will be open to civil action & could face a hefty bill by way of refunding part of the purchase price!
 
Richard thanks for your help , i checked the links you provided and the plastic membrane on a roll looks quite effective ,so i think ill try this option¬ i rang the local council and told them exactly what i was planning to do , ie no electrics or plumbing will be required additionally , i also explained about the damp proof membrane ,and i was told because it does"nt constitute any actually building work i dont need any regulations
I also asked for this in writing to cover me ,should the need arise
Thanks again for all your help
steve
 
Check the manufacturer’s product detail & data sheets & make sure you follow the instructions for fitting, taping & sealing any joins.

You are actually making changes to a “thermal element” (the outside walls) & so it I think it could have gone either way, depending on who you talk to & weather or not they want to get involved. It’s always best to check though & it’s a wise move to get a covering letter; just make sure they actually send it to you. ;)
 

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