Joined: 27 Aug 2003 Posts: 21990 Location: London, United Kingdom Thanked: 78 times
Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:18 am Post Subject:
Lightweight ceiling boards?
I need to replace my kitchen ceiling (approx 2.7m x 2.5m), which currently has some pretty dodgy plasterboard.
Are there any lightweight alternatives to plasterboard, e.g. mineral fibre panels, maybe even ones that aren't 8x4?
I'm trying to avoid having to hire a lift to be able to get plasterboard up there.
Actually, I guess my Q should be "are there any lightweight alternatives to plasterboard which are any good" - googling shows me that there are such products, but even if they are easier to fit I don't want to use them if they're pants.
I'll be getting a plasterer to skim the ceiling, so I'm not bothered if manufacturers claims of just filling the feather-edge joins are optimistic.
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Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 38 Location: Nottinghamshire, United Kingdom Thanked: 2 times
Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 11:06 am Post Subject:
You can now get a number of different sized plaster boards, think you'd be better sticking with them. In the past I've used 12.5mm or 9mm 3ft x 6ft boards which are alot lighter than the 8x4's. My other half managed to screw them in place while I held them up, although sometime not as quickly as I would of liked.
Joined: 26 Apr 2005 Posts: 4326 Location: Norfolk, United Kingdom Thanked: 51 times
Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 12:30 pm Post Subject:
I’d stick with plasterboard but then I’m biased. It’s best to fit the largest boards you can as the more joins you have across the joists the greater chance of cracking. The ceiling isn’t that large though so you should be OK buying full size boards & cut them in half along the joist line if you really can’t get them up there in one piece. Full size boards aren’t as difficult to fit as may appear, it’s down to technique rather than muscle power; my wife has even helped me in the past. You won’t need a lifter with such a strapping son, just him at one end & your head near the other while you drive some strategically placed screws to hold it up while you fully fix but it’s easy to knock up “dead man” from a lump of 4” x 2” & a piece of crap board if you need one. You should easily be able to fit ½ boards on your own though & although it’s usual to fit longest edge across the joists, it’s a small ceiling so won’t make much difference; stagger the joints & use PB screws not nails.
But as RC says a "dead man" will help hold the board tight to ceiling as you fix it.
I tend to use a length of 2"x 2" cut just a tad longer than the measurement between the floor and the ceiling with a piece of slaters lathe 1.5"x 3/4" across the top, about 3ft long depending on board size. In a "T" shape. You put board to ceiling with "T" handy to trap the board firmly whilst your lad screws the boards up and you have a cuppa
It’s best to fit the largest boards you can as the more joins you have across the joists the greater chance of cracking. The ceiling isn’t that large though so you should be OK buying full size boards & cut them in half along the joist line if you really can’t get them up there in one piece.
The ceiling is bigger than 1 board anyway, so I'm going to have to have joins somewhere - might as well cut them in half and have a few more..
Quote:
stagger the joints
Do you mean the ones on the joists, or the ones at right-angles across them? If the latter I did plan to have the narrow strip making up the 2.5m width down just one side, as that will be hidden by wall units, so the join won't matter, but I could cut the other sections so that the join down the middle is staggered:
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Thanks for that - interesting, especially that GypFrame system. I won't know until I check it with a level how much my ceiling is out of true (given the rest of the house I know it'll be a case of "how much", not "if" ), but because of the way I want to install the kitchen I must have it perfectly horizontal. As I could stand to lose a small amount of room height I planned to pack out the joists where necessary, but that adjustable system might be just the job....
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Joined: 27 Aug 2003 Posts: 21990 Location: London, United Kingdom Thanked: 78 times
Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 7:40 pm Post Subject:
One more thing...
If I think of anything else not directly related I'll start a new topic, but....
I'm also going to be drylining one of the walls - what's best - wall first and then new ceiling up to the new line of the wall, or ceiling first and then the wall up to the new ceiling?
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ceiling first and then the wall up to the new ceiling
As above,,, always the best, and easiest way BAS.
Roughcaster.
To elaborate slightly....
I was taught that if you do the ceiling first, when the wall boards go on, they can press up to ceiling boards and help support them. This will reduce potential cracking in the corners, as the ceiling flexes etc under normal conditions.
Though do remember to scrim tape the joints there also.
Joined: 26 Apr 2005 Posts: 4326 Location: Norfolk, United Kingdom Thanked: 51 times
Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:20 am Post Subject:
I’m a bit late with it now but never mind. Stagger the joints at right angles to the joists as PBD’s link - excellent, not seen that one before!
It’s best to provide additional support noggins with a continuous narrow strip of boarding along the edge but a couple of extra overlapping layers of reinforcing tape will probably suffice if it’s going to be hidden & any cracks won’t matter; stagger the joints across the centre though.
As stated, ceiling first, then wall; tape all the joints & skim. I’ve never used the Gypframe system but it seems rather OTT for general domestic requirements.
Joined: 27 Aug 2003 Posts: 21990 Location: London, United Kingdom Thanked: 78 times
Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 4:58 pm Post Subject:
It might be OTT - depends how wonky the existing joist levels are..
Thanks to all for the advice about ceiling first, which leads to another Q..
I may end up just battening the wall to be lined myself, and leaving the boarding, new ceiling and skimming to the plasterer, so when I fix the battens, what sort of gap should I leave at the top? Obviously I want it as small as possible so that the wall board is supported, but it needs to be large enough so that the ceiling boards will go in without too much hassle...
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), but because of the way I want to install the kitchen I must have it perfectly horizontal. As I could stand to lose a small amount of room height I planned to pack out the joists where necessary, but that adjustable system might be just the job....