Chaffoteaux Maury SE80 combi PCB - pinout info needed

Joined
29 Mar 2005
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Location
Manchester
Country
United Kingdom
Hello all. Steve here, desperately needing info if anyone has it please?

I have a new PCB for my SE80 but the fan/pressure switch/thermostat connector block has 1 pin more than that which it is replacing.

Background:

4 weeks ago I got the dreaded lockout flashing code 60 (ionisation pcb fault). Reset would usually cure it for a couple of days. 2 weeks ago it became so frequent I decided to order a new ionisation electrode. If I'd got the last digit of the part number correct I would not have received an ignition electrode instead :oops: . I ordered the correct part and fitted it, along with the unrequired new ignition electrode.

Of course, that turned out not to be the fix I was hoping for. Same fault, although that's only required a reset once in the past week - I'm sure I disturbed something when I cleaned the board, so I'm assuming it's a dry joint somewhere, but as it's currently working I fancy leaving it installed until I get time to install my replacement.

Talking of which, I have just taken delivery of a brand new pcb (61308723) to replace my existing pcb (1302265). The sparse documentation that came with the new unit does indeed say it is a direct replacement for 1302265, and all in all it looks like it will fit - LEDs are in the right place, pots line up fine, though the overall look is different as I would have expected seeing as mine is 9 years old now.

So...

My current pcb has an 8-pin connector block for the fan, pressure switch and safety thermostat. The brown/blue fan wires are separated from the other 5 by a blank [unused] pin (pin 3)

The new pcb has a 9-pin connector block which also has pin 3 unused.

My question...

Does anyone have a diagram, or can list for me, which pins on my new pcb I need to connect? Although I'm sure the existing push-on connector will easily clip onto the new pcb, there will remain an unused and exposed pin (pin 9) and I'm not happy doing that.

If it helps, this schematic is from my existing maintenace guide:

[code:1]
01 brown
02 blue FAN

04 white
05 orange PRESSURE SWITCH
06 black

07 brown
08 brown SAFETY THERMOSTAT

(09 green/yellow MASS)
[/code:1]

(The green/yellow "MASS" is not actually a pin but is a flying earth, see pic)

I'd be grateful for any assistance you guys or gals can provide, and am sorry for the lengthy post.

Here's my current pcb showing the 8 pin connector

100_0742.jpg


Here's the conn block of the one I received today

100_0745.jpg
 
Sponsored Links
I've emailed techhelpdesk at Ariston, who I believe now own the Chaffoteaux brand.

In the meantime, I've scanned the schematic that came with my original boiler.

Has anyone got an equivalent schematic for their post-2002 Britony Combi SE80 pcb? Could it be affixed to the outside of your boiler?

pcb2.jpg


As before, even though there appears to be a 9th pin (bottom right diagram) that is in fact a flying earth lead.

To summarise, my new pcb has 9 pins (with pin 3 blanked/unused) whereas my existing pcb has just 8 pins (pin 3 blanked/unused) (see block B above)

It could be that plugging my 8-pin block onto the 9-pin receptor is what is required, but that would leave pin 9 exposed and I'm not sure whether that's right.
 
I decided to go ahead and fit this new board.

This new board is now fitted and working perfectly, including the new light-show from the LEDs :LOL:

Ok, for future reference, it is ok to fit a new-style 9-pin connector block to the existing 8 pin block. Pin 9 (which remains exposed) can be connected to earth or the trailing yellow/green earth fly lead.

I appreciate some of you might have looked for info for me so I thank you all for that.

Regards
 
Nice pictures!

What did you use to get the close up of the 9 pins?

How do you download to the computer?

Tony
 
Sponsored Links
Hi Tony.

The full pcb pic was taken with a Kodak Z740. The 9-pin close-up was with my Samsung D900 cameraphone :cool:

To get the pics on my PC I used bluetooth from the Samsung and a card reader from the Kodak.

I posted the images to your forum using my photobucket account, which is free to use :D You simply upload to photobucket and it gives you back a URL which you simply paste into your post.
 
I wish I found it that easy!

I have an N95 that takes quite good pictures and a bluetooth TX.

I have a C&W BTA10CW1 USB bluetooth dongle. I cannot find any driver and in any case it partially works because the computer recognises there is the phone connected so it may not be a driver problem anyway!

But it does not fully work so I cannot upload pics off the N95!

Tony
 
Hi Tony,

If this were a Nokia support forum I would ask if you had the latest Nokia PC Suite installed. If you had then replied "yes" then I would recommend removing the Nokia-specific BT drivers and find either the Widcomm or Blue Soleil drivers, which work perfectly with the troublesome Nokia/C&W pairing :!:

But it isn't, so I shalln't :cool: :mrgreen:
 
The latest PCB for this is now 60000571, replacing 61308723 and 1302265.

The new version seems to serve a few different models of Chaff boilers, since its got jumpers for different settings depending on the boiler.
JP1: CF/FF (FF default)
JP2: MOD/TPR (MOD default)
JP3: 3/3 or 1/3 (3/3 default)
JP4: ATAC/CALYDRA (ATAC default)
JP5: ATAC/TIG (ATAC default)

There are also some pcb-mounted pots for adjusting power for full modulation (as well as the TAC control which was there before).

For my SE100 I changed JP2 to TPR, the others were left as default.
TPR corresponds to the 3 gas valves (and 3-level modulation) in the Britony SE100. The other option is for models fully modulating valves - not the 2002 vintage Britony SE boilers I've had the joy of owning (SE80 at previous house, SE100 at the current one).

Ok, fascinating stuff I know, but someone might be interested....
 
hi there,

This is just a note of thanks, really. I had the same problem on my SE80 - changing the circuit board with the 9 pin type - and after googling found this thread. Solved my problem and enabled me to get my heating and hot water back, so thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, much appreciated.

Cheers,

Steve.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top