Godamned Hammerite!

kaseryn · 4 Oct 2006

What is it with this stuff? If you have any on at all it wants to run like fook. Made a mess of the stuff i wanted to pain, and drips and drabs of it all over the place. Bloody disaster. Now i found out u can get a spray version.. but i wouldnt have been able to use that in the area anyway..

Moz · 6 Oct 2006

I have heard off a mate in the trade use the foam pads an load the pad then 2 or 3 covers/wipes , no more an job done , no brush marks an stuck to **** mess , lol

Nige F · 22 Oct 2006

6 weeks later you can paint over it ..........counting

barjac · 23 Oct 2006

I too once hated it but now I love it. If it's cold stand the tin in warm water for 20 mins before use, then stir gently (don't whisk it!) so as not to induce air bubbles. Apply a thinnish first coat so as not to have enough paint to run. A fairly stiff brush helps as Hammerite is thick. Wait about four hours and apply a second coat. If it is yellow then a third coat may be needed to cover properly (this applies to most paints as yellow never covers as well as other colours). I find it has the advantage of quick drying (even in cold weather items are handleable within a few hours), a good finish (brush marks tend to melt away on the second coat - and it can be used straight on to rust. I have never sprayed it as 50% thinners is needed according to the blurb which I suspect would reduce the covering ability, however it can be rolled (even the old stuff) on to steel mesh which also avoids runs.

Best of luck.

chris24 · 31 Oct 2006

i have sparyed with it and the 50/50 mix is not bad at covering its the bloody price of the thinners thats the problem

plus if you mixed it and been out side spraying for a couple of hours in the cold DONT put the lid back on an take the tin inside and put it on your new dining room table as it gets warm, expands and then, POP the lid comes off and now new table is pebble dashed!!!!

Chris

Tozzy · 31 Oct 2006

What's up with Hammerite?

I thought it was great stuff when painting my door ornamental furniture. Can run I admit, but just be very careful

.

davecooper · 3 Nov 2006

I agree with the tip about warming the paint up a bit, makes life so much easier. The thinners/cleaner are expensive, it is cheaper to buy cheap brushes and ditch afterwards. Drip prevention is just a case of taking care.
Good stuff when used properly.

kaseryn · 12 Nov 2006

I think my first mistake was reading the instructions which said to 'apply generously' or somesuch. Ran like hell.. a second attempt was much more successful but i realised you had to stretch the stuff maximally to prevent the running, and even then i needed to catch bits of it here and there. As suggested a second coat approach worked well for me.. does seem to stick better than the first and doesn't need to be as thick ergo no running probs. The job was indoors so not really cold although i didnt try the can warming trick so that's something to bear in mind as i approach to 6 week reapplication mark for the leccy meter box

fastJedi · 12 Nov 2006

I'll try the warming trick.

I concluded it is O.K for small areas (frames, tubes and the like) and for larger areas if they can be placed horizontally. In this case laying it on thick without brushing can acheive good results (heavy hammer finish) ... but I have never really succeeded with lage vertical areas.

kaseryn · 12 Nov 2006

I was painting a long drainage pipe that runs from ceiling to floor in one of the rooms, so very much vertical. Applying carefully and conservatively though, for a first coat.. yielded good results, allowing a good finish with second coat. Just make sure to work it as much as possible for the first coat, stretch it right out and it won't run much. As you say, anything flat is a piece of p*ss ..

Mooncat · 18 Dec 2006

Many years ago, I repainted the chassis on a caravan, before the days of galvanised chassis. I scraped, chiseled, wired brushed, 'til I had cleaned the pitted metal. I applied two thick coats, which covered and looked good, but less than 3 years later, the rust was coming back.

awibble · 31 Jan 2007

hammeright works well, when you read the label.

The technical Team at ICI (the company that makes hammerright) has loads of intresting calls about people that havent read the label on hammerright.

JohnD · 31 Jan 2007

I saw a test on Hammerite (probably by the AA or Which) that said people think they can use it to prevent rust, but the rust will spread underneath it.

I consider it too difficult to use and clean up (except it seems to stand up to hot oily environments) and prefer more ordinary paint systems.

awibble · 31 Jan 2007

Yeah, again if you read the stuff, it tells you to use a wire brush or similar to get rid of the rust first.

sidecar_jon · 4 Feb 2007

I once worked for a guy called Bodger. He bought himself a huge Volvo estate, silver and the odd rust hole. He instructed me to fill the holes and paint it with "This silver stuff...".. and handed me a big brush and a tin of silver Hammerite. It was a very hot summer day, Hammerite strings and runs like hell in the heat! Bearing in mind i was doing this in the street, i must have had a dozen people come past and stand aghast at what i was up to. Its looked like a cake that had been iced before it was cool in the end.

diynot

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Godamned Hammerite!

Moz

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