Seperate Electric Oven/Hob qry

Hi Guys,

I'm currently putting a new kitchen in and wondered if anyone could check that i'm on the right track with the installation of the new electric hob and seperate oven installation.

I'll try and be as informative as poss to give you enough info.

The hob has got 5.8kw stamped on it and the oven 2145w - 2335w on it.

I have gone back to the cable where the existing CCU where the old cooker was connected (which which goes back to the fuse box and has a 30amp fuse on it.) and done the following:

Connected the cable into a 30amp connection strip where i have looped over so i have 2 x 6mm cables running out - 1 leading to new CCU and one to a new 13 amp double plug socket.

So far so good ?

Following the down to the new CCU - i have a 30amp CCU with a plug socket in it - In have 6mm running in and 6 mm running out.

I then plan to run this into another junction box where i will put the 6mm into another connection split so i can have one 6 mm cable running to new oven and one 6 mm running to new hob.

Ive had a quick look around the site and it seems that i might have to replace the CCU from 30amp to 40 or 45amp?? Would this be the case?

Also - all earthes have been shealthed in g and y and cables running horizontially and vertically will be wall sheathed with alluminium wall sheathing (if thats what its called)

I think thats about it - CCU is going to be within 2m of both appliances.

Is there anything fundementally wrong with this approach ?

Thanks for any feedback.

Joe

Appols - i just check the CCU and it is 45amp. So i guess i gotta change the 30amp fuse back at the fuse board and put in 45 breaker.

NO! leave the 30 amp fuse/MCB. your cooker doesnt need 45 amps. the switch is overrated - this is fine. they dont even make 30 amp switches (in this style)

Your oven requires a 13 amp supply - instead of hardwiring into the oven, fit a single plug socket and plug the oven in with a 13 amp 3 pin plug.

Steve said:

NO! leave the 30 amp fuse/MCB. your cooker doesnt need 45 amps. the switch is overrated - this is fine. they dont even make 30 amp switches (in this style)

Your oven requires a 13 amp supply - instead of hardwiring into the oven, fit a single plug socket and plug the oven in with a 13 amp 3 pin plug.

Click to expand...

really? ok...so i'll do a plug thing for the oven and wire in the hob with an earth to some copper pipe?

cheers

what do you mean, copper pipe?

By the way please disregard the other post you commented on, his situation was totally different to yours. Your oven requires different protection.

Steve said:

what do you mean, copper pipe?

By the way please disregard the other post you commented on, his situation was totally different to yours. Your oven requires different protection.

Click to expand...

Thansk Steve, Appols for any confusion.... What i meant to say was....that i will run a seperate earth from inside the hob and attached it to a cw copper pipe that is located close to where the hob wil be going (- just as a safety measure).

So...basically..just for the umteenth time....i run the oven via a normal plug socket and hardwire the hob via the CCU...which means...im good to go...

Steve ...many thanks for your help.

joe_c said:

So...basically..just for the umteenth time....i run the oven via a normal plug socket and hardwire the hob via the CCU...which means...im good to go....

Click to expand...

Yes. The plug socket can be wired to the cooker circuit if you like, such that the cooker switch will also isolate this socket should you need to.

Dont bond to pipes in the kitchen. Not sure where you got this idea?

Though there should be a main bond to the water pipe where it emerges from the floor in the house. This bond runs back to the main earth terminal by the consumer unit.