Joined: 25 Nov 2007 Posts: 8 Location: West Midlands, United Kingdom Thanked: 0 times
Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 2:37 pm Post Subject:
replacing ceramic hob, almost like for like
We recently dropped something onto our smeg ceramic hob (SE2640TC1, I think, came with the flat and no documentation), it chipped at first and then eventually cracked all the way through the ceramic. It appears to work fine still, but obviously isn't safe or atheticly right.
We have purchased a new Smeg SE2641TC1 to replace it with. The only technical difference I can see between the two is that the nominal power for the existing hob (if it's the model we suspect) is 6.2kW, but for the new one 6.6kW.
Is replacing the hob a simple job of taking one out and plugging/wiring the other, in that with some very basic knowledge we could do ourselves, or is it a job for an electrician?
Joined: 27 Jul 2006 Posts: 4932 Location: Oxfordshire, United Kingdom Thanked: 63 times
Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 2:51 pm Post Subject:
Are you able to identify what circuit on your fuseboard the hob is connected to and what the fuse is? Also does this fuse only serve the hob or does it power something else too?
If its the only thing on that circuit you are probably OK if we are talking about a 30 or 32A fuse with correct sized cable.
It will not be plug in though. It will be hardwired into a terminal box on the hob.
__________________ TTC
When you get to the end of your rope, tie a knot and hang on. - F.D.R.
Joined: 25 Nov 2007 Posts: 8 Location: West Midlands, United Kingdom Thanked: 0 times
Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 3:06 pm Post Subject:
Thanks, I've inspected the fuseboard and found it comes with a nice little card telling me what is what:
1. Supply to Hob Radical
Cable ref:
Live:10mm
C.P.C.: 4.0mm
Type: 6242B
Protection:
Rating: 32.A.
Type: MCB-B
So the fuse is ok. I've turned it off at the trip switch and it doesn't appear to affect any other supply than the hob, so asuming this information is correct.
Joined: 17 Jun 2004 Posts: 4538 Location: United Kingdom Thanked: 10 times
Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:07 pm Post Subject:
No need to isolate the whole board, just turn off the hob isolator and the hob MCB at the board
Oh, and see if there is an electrical contractors name on that card, keep the number for future reference, the circuit schedule is a requirement of BS7671, yet the vast majority of domestic installations do not have one... his attention to detail is good
Joined: 25 Nov 2007 Posts: 8 Location: West Midlands, United Kingdom Thanked: 0 times
Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:24 pm Post Subject:
Thanks again, shall do that. It's nice to hear something has been done properly in this newly built. Not sure where the logic behind the strange 5 amp plug sockets dotted everywhere came from...
Not sure where the logic behind the strange 5 amp plug sockets dotted everywhere came from...
They are to plug your table lamps into. You can buy 5 amp plugs. You'll have a bunch of switches, possibly dimmers, that control these sockets (perhaps you thought they did nothing, spare?)
Not sure where the logic behind the strange 5 amp plug sockets dotted everywhere came from...
They are to plug your table lamps into. You can buy 5 amp plugs. You'll have a bunch of switches, possibly dimmers, that control these sockets (perhaps you thought they did nothing, spare?)
There's no extra switches for them, I was aware what they for I'm just slightly bemused by the idea that in a one bedroom flat, with a living area that had eleven halogen bulbs(!) (we need never turn the heating on) in the ceiling, you'd need that much more lighting. Only one of the four phone sockets works too, though I'm told that's a relatively simple wiring job to fix.
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