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nichos

Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 68 Location: Buckinghamshire, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 7:38 am |
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The ceramic hop instruction says use a sealant BUT NOT SILICON round the inside of the cut in worktop.
B&Q etc. all say they do not have a Non Silicon type.
Can you advise please?
thanx nick |
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davelx

Joined: 26 Sep 2006 Posts: 1012 Location: London, United Kingdom Thanked: 37 times
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Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 9:18 am |
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Veglen

Joined: 07 May 2008 Posts: 89 Location: Lancashire, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 10:35 am |
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From memory, ceramic hobs are generally supplied with a dense foam seal.
Similar to the ones used on door and window frames as a draft proofer. You could probably use the type that's on a roll and sticks on the door frame to stop drafts when the door closes against it. The dense foam would probably be best. Not the cheap stuff!
The idea is that the seal is stuck to the underside of the ceramic hop around the edge. When the hob is placed into position the seal compresses against the worktop under the weight and is clamped down. This causes it to seal and prevents any movement.
Hope that makes sense!
V |
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TicklyT

Joined: 30 Jul 2006 Posts: 3479 Location: Hampshire, United Kingdom Thanked: 335 times
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Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 12:05 pm |
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If you use silicon sealant it will probably stick like the proverbial to a blanket, so if you try and lift the hob out for any reason you end up with two halves of a hob before the seal breaks.
And there endeth the guarantee..... |
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Diyisfun

Joined: 15 Jun 2004 Posts: 5860 Location: Norwich, United Kingdom Thanked: 150 times
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Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 12:30 pm |
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Plumbers mait is good for this |
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Richard1

Joined: 25 Mar 2007 Posts: 24 Location: Kent, United Kingdom Thanked: 1 time
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Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:04 pm |
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I think most of you have misunderstood the poster, although in all fairness this is more akin to kitchen fitting.
The manufactures of the worktops usually request that cut outs in worktops should be sealed, normally this is achieved with either upva wood glue or silicon, this is usually applied to the raw edge of the worktop prior to fitting the hob and should be allowed to dry before fitting the appliance |
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nichos

Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 68 Location: Buckinghamshire, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 3:20 pm |
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Thanx you all, probably the last sugestion is as applicable as any, except for the SILICON.
The others are somewhat vague.
The Screwfix you give says "30% stronger than traditional silicone. Mould-resistant and waterproof".
Anybody used tis one:- code 45463 "No Nonsense Intumescent Sealant 310ml 310ml. Interior fire retardant and acoustic Sealant. Excellent acoustic properties. Paintable, with non-slump properties. Fire-rated to BS476 Part 20 / 22.
The cut out instruction for the sink said paint the raw cut surface & shows a brash, BUT the instruction for the Hob cut out shows the "gun & sealant tube" running against the cut surface, sayng sealant BUT NOT SILICON.
Has anybody used Plumbers mait for hobs? if it will not burn out with the extra hob heat, it would be the easiest to apply.
nick |
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Diyisfun

Joined: 15 Jun 2004 Posts: 5860 Location: Norwich, United Kingdom Thanked: 150 times
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 7:01 am |
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I have used plumbers mait. I contact the manufacture to find the temperature that it was ok at. Its been in use for 3 years now.
If you use silcone, you will have problems getting the hob out, should you need to for repairs.
I worked in domestic appliances developement for over 15 years, our hobs were always supplied with a foam strip.
My new hob was supplied with foam tape, but has it was on a tiled surface, the tape was not thick enough, hence using plumbers mail. |
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nichos

Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 68 Location: Buckinghamshire, United Kingdom
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Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 9:15 am |
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many thanx, will use P.mait. nick |
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