Total noob advice on lead flashing

Hmm.....i 'think' i get the jist of what you mean, but either way it looks like the leading needs to profile over the top of the tiles? Which seems to be my main issue as bashing it to fit would break the tiles.

In the bottom drawing, is the 'cc' a gap between tile and gable end which is covered by lead to act as a gutter? If so, then it folds to sit on top of the tile which still requires profiling?

Am i understanding this correct or am i so wide of the mark i could be in another country? :confused:
 
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:D you've emigrated!........cc would be a 125mm water channel laid on a suitably sized sole plate and to the right would be a 30mm upstand on the lead which would then return flat onto the batten, thereafter the tile would bridge across the top of the channel.
to the left would be a 100mm upstand against the clubstone wall, thereafter a counter flashing would be fitted under the flagstones draping down and over the 100mm upstand. errrm do you follow :)

by the way kjacko what you using to dress the lead a sledgehammer:cool:
 
llllllloooooooooooolllllllllll............thank the lord for humility! :LOL:

I was using the handle end of a hammer to 'gently contour' the lead over the tiles, but they are quite ridgy ya know. :cool:

So, i totally misunderstood your explanation then? Sheesh!
 
yeah just a tad,
to go the way of the top pic (lead soakers) the lead would have to be dressed over the contour of the tile on each course! the 1st roll, then up the wall 100mm then the counter flashing installed as per the previous post.
this method as i said before, would require less engineering of the lead or additional joinery work.
 
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Hi Soakers should not be used on interlock tiles as there is nothing to support them. The secret gutter with a wormed edge under the tiles is the only option. Even this method may require pointing up between the tile and lead, as the rake on the gable and cut tiles is forming half a valley, against the parapet wall.
 
Hi my reason for posting comments on this site is to help subscribes, as i am sure yours is. However we appear to be creating more heat than light, in order to support this posting. I will explain my reasoning

!. I understand the term soaker, to be metal that is bent to form a joint at abutment where slate or double lap tiles are used and fitted between laps. I use the term cover flashing (all be it in small pieces) for the scheme you describe. Our terminology differs.
2.The worm to secret gutter i mentioned and on closer view apparent on the sketch which YOU submitted.
3. My suggestion that the secret gutter resembled a valley and may need pointing. Was based on this hybrid situation that was not designed but evolved. When this type of tile is cut the cut edge losses its drip qualities and on such a low pitch its likely that water will track back. By bedding and pointing it may help to avoid this. It would mean that the under tile lap would need to be greater as would the distance of tiles from abutment to accommodate pointing access.
With respect to the owner of the building its a case of making the best of a bad job and i do not intend to fall out with you, and if asked to do the job as a contractor at this stage. I would not touch it with a barge pole Good Luck
 
all fair points justlead1! the position is not exactly of the norm therefore a bit of non conformist thinking would be the way forward on this one.
i totally agree with your technical installation theories of lead soakers....but in this case as you may well agree, a bit of thought needs to be put into it.
apologies if i sounded rude, it was not intentional.
like yourself, i only try and help.....if i am wrong in any of my advice, i stand corrected. though in this case i think lead soakers would be the best method for the op.
unless you can devise a better solution yourself.
all the best...
 
Hi Thanks for your reply is nice to be back on level ground, it nice to see we understand one another. Good luck
 

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