Hotpoint WMA50P Door Interlock & PCB

Hi everyone, hoping someone can help me with some advice with my Hotpoint WMA50P washing machine

It's about 5 years old but generally in good condition due to below average usage. Yesterday, whilst in the middle of a cycle, the electric trip switch in my house flipped, cutting all power. After investigation, the kitchen trip switch had flipped, along with the main power trip switch. Nobody was using anything in the kitchen, so I tried flipping them both back on and all ok.

Only later did I realise that my washing machine was no longer working properly (and I'm guessing it caused the trip to happen). When I try starting any program, the door lock doesn't "click" to lock and the door lock LED flashes forever. I've tried wiggling the door, pushing it in and out (in case of a mechanical issue with the door lock/hinge), but no luck. The door is shutting and the release lever working to open the door, but the door lock LED keeps flashing and the trademark "click" when a program starts (presumably locking the door) no longer happens.

I've taken a look under the hood and removed the door interlock (Metalflex ZV-446). I think this is some sort of metallic switch to lock the door. It has 1 red wire (labelled 1) and 2 white wires (labelled 2 and 3) going to it. I've placed my meter across the 3 terminals and the only resistance registering is between 1 and 2 (red and first white) with a value of about 20 (set to 200K on meter). I can source a replacement of this for about £8 here in the UK. I haven't a clue how to test if this is working properly or needs replacing.

Investigating further, I've traced the 3 wires back to the PCB (not sure of proper name - control panel?) and I think I've spotted a problem. Near where the first white wire (which goes to terminal 2 on the interlock) enters the PCB I can see a clear brown/black "blow out" or damage. Here is a photo of what I see :



This is worrying as maybe even if I replace the interlock (which might not even be faulty), this PCB problem might be a show stopper. Not sure what part number this whole PCB thing is, but if its the "console panel", that appears to be about £50 to replace. If this needs doing, the cost is starting to get a bit high for a 5 year old machine, considering new machines are £200ish in the UK.

Any advice on the above issues or previous experience on how to fix the symptoms are much appreciated. Is it worth buying the interlock as its cheap and see if it fixes the issue? If it doesn't, can the PCB be fixed by some tricky soldering or is it a new PCB?

Thanks in advance peeps

Check the motor brushes when they wear down it pops the pcb , just solder the link on pcb then check brushes. Do not use until u check them otherwise it will go bang again. If you want to know why lock flashes it's cos it take the netual supply off the motor and causes a flashback. When ever you change a lock on a wma mc if it's a red replacement lock fits the same way but if it's a White replacement turn the loom on the lock the other way otherwise it will go bang again.

Hi rocks1 many thanks for the prompt reply.

I'll check the motor brushes. I've never done this before, so sorry if this is a stupid question, but how will I know if they've wore down? What should I look for?

In terms of the lock, the original is red in color, attached to a black plastic piece which bolts to the door frame and contains the slider and spring mechanism. I have my eye on this replacement part : http://www.ransomspares.co.uk/parts/washing-machines/compatible-interlock-hotpoint/120433.htm which appears very similar (red switch and black piece to bolt to door).

I didn't fully understand your comment on turning the "loom" but if they replacement is also red, maybe I don't need to. Do you reckon I should order this anyway, regardless of what I find with the brushes?

Thanks so much, you're a great help

No don't just order parts check the brushes first post a pic of them I'll tell u if there worn. Yes door lock red is like for like , if it was a White one you was buying then u turn the loom so the 3 wires face the drum at the mo they face the front panel.

Ok thanks, I will check the brushes after work today and post a pic up here for further advice. Thanks again

Well, after over an hour of trying I'm really struggling to get either the motor out or even the most accessible brush. Should I focus on getting the motor out of should the brushes come out without removing the motor?

The brushes don't appear to be separate with their own separate holders, it appears there is one whole cream plastic holder then runs around the whole of one side of the motor, holding both brushes and also some wiring etc.

I've removed the cover on the most accessible brush but can't see how I release it to remove it. Tried yanking with some pliers but it doesn't want to shift. How does it release from the cream plastic holder?

Rather frustrated and any advice appreciated

Motor has to come out. You have what's called a White winged motor the case is White. Brushes are clipped in and there could be a torx screw holding them in plenty of vids on you tube. The brushes on that motor are prone to wearing down

Right, I decided to crack open a beer and take stock of the situation

It seemed to work and I managed to get both brushes out without removing the motor. Seems that the brushes came out sidewards (horizontally) rather than upwards (vertically). They have 2 little tabs on each side holding them in sideways.

Anyway, they seem quite worn to me and only have a mm or 2 visible :



Presume you'd recommend new brushes then huh?! Can I buy just the brushes without the plastic covers?

I've checked the armature (rotating it) and can't see any obvious damage.

Unsure if fitting new brushes will be as "easy" as it was to remove them, but I'll give it a shot before trying to remove the motor (2 bolts in rather inaccessible places and also very tight).

Thanks so much for your help so far, really appreciate it mate.

In addition to the above info, thought I'd post details of the motor. I've been surfing for replacement brushes and most seem specific to motor manufacturer such as FHP, CE or Bosch. Don't think mine is Bosch because those brushes have curly wires coming from them.

Sadly, can't see any manufacturer stamped anywhere on the motor. Here's what is stamped on it :

B2
129.60124
P-C

then in ink :

1640200309
09/04 317/03 3
1BA5?65-OVA 230V 50Hz ISO K1.F

Any advice on brushes for this motor? Here's a link I've found listing the types it says are possible for my WMA50P : http://www.ransomspares.co.uk/parts/search/brush/hotpoint/washing-machines/wma50p/b/c/m/

Cheers

Oh yes well worn need replacing. Try eBay cost less than a tenner if you manage to put them in without removing motor ive never done that. If you remove the motor 13 mm socket and motor pulls off don't loose the black washer on the rear motor stub, plus it's a stretch belt that's a challenge to put back on big cable ties needed to hook belt on. Good luck.

290549950209. eBay cheap as chip less than a tenner

Thanks rocks1, any comment on which brushes to get i.e. do I need to match them to my motor? Finally, all the brushes seem to come in black or cream plastic cases - can I remove them from plastic case as I only need the metal piece to re-insert.

Edit : you beat me to it with that item number! Taking a look now mate.

Cream ones go on Wm 61/ 62 etc you need black part no 1603910 for wma.

Thanks ever so much, really appreciate your time.

I'll order up the black ones and try to fit them. Is it easy to remove the black outer body leaving just the metal containing carbon brush (like my picture)? There is no room on my motor for the black housing or screws etc.

After this, guess I need to learn how to fix the PCB properly. I have a solder iron with various heads but it doesn't have a temperature control. Do I have to repair the blown area or can I "bypass" it by soldering a small piece of wire from before the damage to after the damage?

I owe you a few pints next time I'm in the Cayman Islands!!

Yes before and after is ok with a thin piece of copper wire will do.